What's on in Milan for today and the rest of the weekend?
"Hello Milan" is a good place to check...and it's in English!...More......
Here's a copy-and-paste from their website in English (yeah!): http://www.hellomilano.it/What'sOn/WhatsOn.htm
20 January 2012, Friday
20.00: Ballet at La Scala. “Excelsior”. Music by Romualdo Marenco. Conductor David Coleman. Etoile Roberto Bolle. €19/138. Teatro alla Scala, Piazza della Scala • M1/3 Duomo
21.00: Ballet. “The Swan Lake,” music by Tchaikovsky, performed by the Russian National Ballet Theatre. €28/53. Teatro degli Arcimboldi, Viale dell’Innovazione 1 • M1 Precotto + tram 7; buses 86, 87
21.30: Silent film. “Faust” directed by Friedrich Wilhelm Murnau. With live piano accompaniment by Antonio Zambrini. €3.50/5.50 + annual membership card €3. Spazio Oberdan, Viale Vittorio Veneto 2 • M1 Porta Venezia
22.00: Latin jazz. Performed by the Trio Sdo’. Admission free. Drinks purchase required. Fermento Art&Pub, Via Camillo Ugoni 18 • bus 92, tram 2
22.00: Live jazz-pop. Performed by Roberto Cecchetto, guitar, and Cristiano Calcagnile, percussion and electronics. Admission free with 2012 annual membership card (€25), donations welcome. Arci, La Scighera, Via Candiani 131• Passante Bovisa, tram 3, buses 92 and 82
21 January 2012, Saturday
16.30: Organ concert. “Beate Martyr, prospera” performed by Giulio Mercati, organ: poetry reading by Sandro Boccardi. Admission free. Basilica of San Vincenzo in Prato, Piazzetta Beria di Argentine on the corner with via San Calocero • M2 Sant’Ambrogio
17.00: Orchestral music. Music by Grieg and Nielsen, performed by the Pomeriggi Musicali Orchestra, conducted by Giordano Bellincampi, with Paolo Bordoni, piano. €8/19. Teatro Dal Verme, Via San Giovanni sul Muro 2 • M1 Cairoli
18.00: Chamber music. Music by Bach and Morricone, performed by Wacky Brass Quintet. Free tickets will be available from last Tuesday at the Urban Center, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele 11/12. Entrance free. Palazzo Marino, Piazza della Scala 2 • MMI, M3 Duomo
19.00: Film preview, in English and Spanish, with Italian subtitles. "Another silence", directed by Santiago Amigorena. Starring: Marie-Josée Croze, Ignacio Rogers, Luis Ziembrowski, Alin Salas, Luc Vandal, Roger Frappier. Entrance €3.50/5.50 + annual membership card €3. Spazio Oberdan, Viale Vittorio Veneto 2 • M1 Porta Venezia
19.30: Opera sung in French, at La Scala. Les contes d’Hoffmann by Jacques Offenbach. Orchestra conducted by Marko Letonja. €26/224. Teatro alla Scala, Piazza della Scala • M1/3 Duomo
21.00: Ballet. “The Swan Lake,” music by Tchaikovsky, performed by the Russian National Ballet Theatre. €28/53. Teatro degli Arcimboldi, Viale dell’Innovazione 1 • M1 Precotto + tram 7; buses 86, 87
22.00: Live swing for dancing. Lady Dillinger. Booking recommended, phone the mobile number 334.311.2926. €10, plus annual membership card. Jumpin’ Jazz Cultural Association, Viale Monza 140 (first floor) • M1 Gorla
22.00: Live music. Band Of Skulls, Milk White and Shiva Racket. Admission free, with annual membership card. Arci Magnolia, Via Circonvallazione Idroscalo 41, Segrate (east of Milan) • M1 San Babila, then bus 73 to Linate Aerop.-S.Felicino
22.00: Live funk, blues, swing. Performed by The Hawks. Admission free. Drinks purchase required. Fermento Art&Pub, Via Camillo Ugoni 18 • bus 92, tram 2
22.00: Live pop folk rock. Performed by “I Treni all'Alba” with Paolo Carlotto and Daniele Pierini, guitars, Sabino Pace, piano, and Felice Sciscioli, drums. Admission free with 2012 annual membership card (€25), donations welcome. Arci, La Scighera, Via Candiani 131• Passante Bovisa, tram 3, buses 92 and 82
22 January 2012, Sunday
Time to be confirmed: Football. Inter versus Lazio. Stadio Meazza San Siro, Via Piccolomini 5 • M1 Lotto + bus 49
11.00: Chamber music. Music by Nino Rota, Bohuslav Martinu and Alessandro Solbiati, performed by the Albatros Trio. €10. Palazzina Liberty, Largo Marinai d’Italia • trams 12, 27; buses 60, 73, 62, 45, 66, 92
11.00: Chamber music. Music by Beethoven and Nino Rota, performed by Antares Quartet. Free tickets will be available from last Tuesday at the Urban Center, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele 11/12. Entrance free. Palazzo Marino, Piazza della Scala 2 • MMI, M3 Duomo
20.00: Ballet at La Scala. “Excelsior”. Music by Romualdo Marenco. Conductor David Coleman. Etoile Roberto Bolle. €19/138. Teatro alla Scala, Piazza della Scala • M1/3 Duomo
21.00: Ballet. “The Swan Lake,” music by Tchaikovsky, performed by the Russian National Ballet Theatre. €28/53. Teatro degli Arcimboldi, Viale dell’Innovazione 1 • M1 Precotto + tram 7; buses 86, 87
21.15: Film preview, in English and Spanish, with Italian subtitles. "Another silence", directed by Santiago Amigorena. Starring: Marie-Josée Croze, Ignacio Rogers, Luis Ziembrowski, Alin Salas, Luc Vandal, Roger Frappier. Entrance €3.50/5.50 + annual membership card €3. Spazio Oberdan, Viale Vittorio Veneto 2 • M1 Porta Venezia
21.30: Live music. Very Short Shorts, Tempelhof, Cabeki. Admission free, with annual membership card. Arci Magnolia, Via Circonvallazione Idroscalo 41, Segrate (east of Milan) • M1 San Babila, then bus 73 to Linate Aerop.-S.Felicino
Enjoy!
Showing posts with label Photoless Friday. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Photoless Friday. Show all posts
Friday, January 20, 2012
Friday, September 30, 2011
Photoless Friday (30): The Milky Way... in Lombardy
To bring the park on the south of Milan to the attention not just of tourists, but also of the Milanese, the 1st and 2nd of October there are activities called "The Milky Way" (Via Lattea) planned in the center of town and in the park, itself...More......
The park must be lovely... ahem... I haven't been, yet... and I actually would love to see the cows (mooo!)... there is a working farm!
That sounds like two fun-filled days for the family.
Saturday, October 1 in Piazza Mercanti in downtown Milan, Sunday, October 2 in the park (from 10 A.M. to 5 P.M.)... don't miss it!
Want more info?
Go to the website of F.A.I.-Fondo Ambiente Italiano: http://www.fondoambiente.it/Attivita-FAI/via-lattea-alla-scoperta-del-parco-agricolo-sud.asp
(Bless them...there's an English language button in the upper right corner of their web site... but it doesn't work.)
Don't want to load down this message, so let me just say that there are lots of other great things closing this weekend. Check out the official web site of the Province of Milan, http://www.visitamilano.it, the basis for the free and handy "MilanoMese" guide about which we've spoken before.
Enjoy!
The park must be lovely... ahem... I haven't been, yet... and I actually would love to see the cows (mooo!)... there is a working farm!
That sounds like two fun-filled days for the family.
Saturday, October 1 in Piazza Mercanti in downtown Milan, Sunday, October 2 in the park (from 10 A.M. to 5 P.M.)... don't miss it!
Want more info?
Go to the website of F.A.I.-Fondo Ambiente Italiano: http://www.fondoambiente.it/Attivita-FAI/via-lattea-alla-scoperta-del-parco-agricolo-sud.asp
(Bless them...there's an English language button in the upper right corner of their web site... but it doesn't work.)
Don't want to load down this message, so let me just say that there are lots of other great things closing this weekend. Check out the official web site of the Province of Milan, http://www.visitamilano.it, the basis for the free and handy "MilanoMese" guide about which we've spoken before.
Enjoy!
Thursday, September 22, 2011
Photoless Friday (29): Eavesdropping and carspotting
Overheard (in Italian) on a train, yesterday:
She: "Hi, sweetheart, the train is just getting into the station."
He: "......."
She: "O.K., so you're at the front of the station."
He: "......."
She: "Which car do you have?"
He: "......."
She: "Uh, yeah...what color is it?"
She: "Hi, sweetheart, the train is just getting into the station."
He: "......."
She: "O.K., so you're at the front of the station."
He: "......."
She: "Which car do you have?"
He: "......."
She: "Uh, yeah...what color is it?"
Friday, September 16, 2011
Photoless Friday (28): Wines in Lombardy and an upcoming wine festival!
Lombardy isn't known for its wines, but it has quite a few respectable ones, including spumante (since we can't call it "champagne," anymore) from the Franciacorta area, which straddles Lombardy and the Veneto...More......
Why can't we call it "champagne," anymore? Because "Champagne" is the name of a region in France, from which this kind of sparkling white wine took its name, but now European Union rules say that only sparkling white wines from that regione can be called that. (The same thing happened to the Italian "Tocai"--now called "Friuliano," after the northeastern region of Italy in which it is principally produced--a name considered by the European Union as too similar to the Hungarian "Tocaj.")
Let's get to the point: the 25th of September there will be the Festival of the Grape in the only DOC area in the Province of Milan (the governmental organization between the levels of city and region...think of it as "county"), San Colombano near the Lambro river, in the "oltrepo pavese" region (that is, the area near to Pavia on the other side of the Po River). The hills of Miradolo Terme and Graffignana are involved, and the event is held--for the 54th time--by the San Colombano DOC Wine Association. For more information: http://www.sancolombanodoc.it, tel. +39.0371.89.88.30.
Piqued your interest in Lombard wines? Here are a few websites in Italy (YOU can look up "wines in Lombardy" easily for yourself!), which seemed reliable:
VINOSTORE.IT (yes, it's trying to sell you the wines, but the list looks helpful): http://www.vinostore.it/lombardia.php
Google maps for "vino in lombardia" (wine in Lombardy) turns up this handy map of some of the vintners in the area: http://www.google.it/search?q=vino+lombardia&hl=it&rlz=1G1GGLQ_ITIT343&prmd=imvns&source=univ&tbm=plcs&tbo=u&ei=AutyTvrKEsfj4QTuicGgDQ&sa=X&oi=local_group&ct=more-results&resnum=2&ved=0CGkQtQMwAQ
Lombard wines and the "VinItaly 2011" convention: http://www.lombardiavini.it/
A pdf publication dated 2009, and which appears to have the official approval--to be taken with a grain of salt--of the Region of Lombardy, about Lombard wines: http://www.buonalombardia.it/images/File/Allegati%20pubblicazioni/Vini09%20ITA-Ok.pdf
The wine roads in Lombardy (principally Bergamo, Brescia, Lodi, Mantova, Pavia, Sondrio): http://www.paesionline.it/lombardia/itinerari_ed_escursioni/strade_del_vino.asp
Though the sources are in Italian, if you're a wine buff you'll recognize terms. Even if you're not, hopefully it should be pretty obvious when they're talking about a wine, or a city: at least you'll get the names that you then can look up in English, yourself.
Running...unfortunately, not towards a glass of wine...at the moment!
Enjoy!
Why can't we call it "champagne," anymore? Because "Champagne" is the name of a region in France, from which this kind of sparkling white wine took its name, but now European Union rules say that only sparkling white wines from that regione can be called that. (The same thing happened to the Italian "Tocai"--now called "Friuliano," after the northeastern region of Italy in which it is principally produced--a name considered by the European Union as too similar to the Hungarian "Tocaj.")
Let's get to the point: the 25th of September there will be the Festival of the Grape in the only DOC area in the Province of Milan (the governmental organization between the levels of city and region...think of it as "county"), San Colombano near the Lambro river, in the "oltrepo pavese" region (that is, the area near to Pavia on the other side of the Po River). The hills of Miradolo Terme and Graffignana are involved, and the event is held--for the 54th time--by the San Colombano DOC Wine Association. For more information: http://www.sancolombanodoc.it, tel. +39.0371.89.88.30.
Piqued your interest in Lombard wines? Here are a few websites in Italy (YOU can look up "wines in Lombardy" easily for yourself!), which seemed reliable:
VINOSTORE.IT (yes, it's trying to sell you the wines, but the list looks helpful): http://www.vinostore.it/lombardia.php
Google maps for "vino in lombardia" (wine in Lombardy) turns up this handy map of some of the vintners in the area: http://www.google.it/search?q=vino+lombardia&hl=it&rlz=1G1GGLQ_ITIT343&prmd=imvns&source=univ&tbm=plcs&tbo=u&ei=AutyTvrKEsfj4QTuicGgDQ&sa=X&oi=local_group&ct=more-results&resnum=2&ved=0CGkQtQMwAQ
Lombard wines and the "VinItaly 2011" convention: http://www.lombardiavini.it/
A pdf publication dated 2009, and which appears to have the official approval--to be taken with a grain of salt--of the Region of Lombardy, about Lombard wines: http://www.buonalombardia.it/images/File/Allegati%20pubblicazioni/Vini09%20ITA-Ok.pdf
The wine roads in Lombardy (principally Bergamo, Brescia, Lodi, Mantova, Pavia, Sondrio): http://www.paesionline.it/lombardia/itinerari_ed_escursioni/strade_del_vino.asp
Though the sources are in Italian, if you're a wine buff you'll recognize terms. Even if you're not, hopefully it should be pretty obvious when they're talking about a wine, or a city: at least you'll get the names that you then can look up in English, yourself.
Running...unfortunately, not towards a glass of wine...at the moment!
Enjoy!
Friday, September 9, 2011
Photoless Friday (27): hurry, hurry, hurry, the nice weather is drawing to a close
Torrid heat and high humidity aside, the nice weather of summer is drawing to a close, so here's a list of things To Do before the winter chill (and high humidity) rusts our bones....More......
Biking along the "Naviglio Pavese"
The Naviglio Pavese, the canal that goes from Milan to Pavia, was a source of water for the grounds of the castle of Pavia, where some of the Milanese lords preferred to live. A bike path, complete with iron railings for safety, has been completed, and can be ridden for about 24 kilometers. (P.S., the castle in Pavia still exists, is easy to get to on foot from the train station for normally healthy people, and has interesting exhibits. The city is lovely, and has lots to offer for a day trip.)
Sporty types in for a museum visit might enjoy "Women and Sport, 1861-2011" at the Museo del Risorgimento, via Borgonuovo, 23, open til the 25th of September.
Visits to the crenellated soldiers walk along the upper rim of the Sforza castle continue until the 15th of October. For (obligatory) reservations (Ad Artem): +39.02.659.6937.
Like the castle? There also are evening visits to the underground tunnels, till the 15th of October. For (obligatory) reservations (Ad Artem): +39.02.659.6937.
For a panoramic view of Milan from the top of the "Torre Branca" in Parco Sempione, you'll have to go before the 15th of October, when the potential and unpredictable arrival of unpleasant weather makes it unfeasible. (Via Camoens)
Movie buff? Outdoor theater in three enchanting places around town: the courtyard of the world-famous music conservatory, the courtyard of the Humaniter Foundation, the public gardens now dedicated to the journalist Indro Montanelli. The series closes on the 12th of September, just around the corner, so call for info: +39.02.659.7732.
For art lovers, the exhibit "Hayez in the Milan of Manzoni and Verdi" at the Brera Pinacoteca is set to close on the 25th of this month. Yikes! I'd better go, soon, myself!
More for art lovers and lovers of Milanese history: "Memories of Milan" at the Fondazione Biblioteca di via Senato (surprise, surprise, at via Senato, n. 14) will be closing on the 23rd of October.
A good visit for the curious and for families: "Feeding the soul and spirit" lasts at the Archaeological Museum (Corso Magenta, 15) until the 31st of December. Don't miss going downstairs and into the back courtyard to see remains of the ancient Roman walls of the Republican and the Imperial periods, or going into the little attached church, San Maurizio, "carpeted" with Renaissance frescoes (the museum is in one of the ex-courtyards of the church).
Want something else to do with the kids? "Form and function in the world of mammals" at the Museo di Storia Naturale (Museum of Natural History), Corso Venezia 55, tel. +39.02.8846.3337 runs until the 2nd of October.
Enjoy!
Biking along the "Naviglio Pavese"
The Naviglio Pavese, the canal that goes from Milan to Pavia, was a source of water for the grounds of the castle of Pavia, where some of the Milanese lords preferred to live. A bike path, complete with iron railings for safety, has been completed, and can be ridden for about 24 kilometers. (P.S., the castle in Pavia still exists, is easy to get to on foot from the train station for normally healthy people, and has interesting exhibits. The city is lovely, and has lots to offer for a day trip.)
Sporty types in for a museum visit might enjoy "Women and Sport, 1861-2011" at the Museo del Risorgimento, via Borgonuovo, 23, open til the 25th of September.
Visits to the crenellated soldiers walk along the upper rim of the Sforza castle continue until the 15th of October. For (obligatory) reservations (Ad Artem): +39.02.659.6937.
Like the castle? There also are evening visits to the underground tunnels, till the 15th of October. For (obligatory) reservations (Ad Artem): +39.02.659.6937.
For a panoramic view of Milan from the top of the "Torre Branca" in Parco Sempione, you'll have to go before the 15th of October, when the potential and unpredictable arrival of unpleasant weather makes it unfeasible. (Via Camoens)
Movie buff? Outdoor theater in three enchanting places around town: the courtyard of the world-famous music conservatory, the courtyard of the Humaniter Foundation, the public gardens now dedicated to the journalist Indro Montanelli. The series closes on the 12th of September, just around the corner, so call for info: +39.02.659.7732.
For art lovers, the exhibit "Hayez in the Milan of Manzoni and Verdi" at the Brera Pinacoteca is set to close on the 25th of this month. Yikes! I'd better go, soon, myself!
More for art lovers and lovers of Milanese history: "Memories of Milan" at the Fondazione Biblioteca di via Senato (surprise, surprise, at via Senato, n. 14) will be closing on the 23rd of October.
A good visit for the curious and for families: "Feeding the soul and spirit" lasts at the Archaeological Museum (Corso Magenta, 15) until the 31st of December. Don't miss going downstairs and into the back courtyard to see remains of the ancient Roman walls of the Republican and the Imperial periods, or going into the little attached church, San Maurizio, "carpeted" with Renaissance frescoes (the museum is in one of the ex-courtyards of the church).
Want something else to do with the kids? "Form and function in the world of mammals" at the Museo di Storia Naturale (Museum of Natural History), Corso Venezia 55, tel. +39.02.8846.3337 runs until the 2nd of October.
Enjoy!
Friday, August 26, 2011
Photoless Friday (26): wanna peek behind the curtain--so to speak--at La Scala?
Opera buffs, you won't want to miss this!
Until the 31st of December, there are regular Tuesday and Thursday 3 P.M. guided visits to the workshop where they create the scenographic magic for La Scala in the ex-steelworks Ansaldo company building, via Bergognone, 34.
Reservations in advance are required, call CIVITA at +39-02.433.53.521.
Ready for the really amazing bit?
It's only E.5!
Enjoy!
Until the 31st of December, there are regular Tuesday and Thursday 3 P.M. guided visits to the workshop where they create the scenographic magic for La Scala in the ex-steelworks Ansaldo company building, via Bergognone, 34.
Reservations in advance are required, call CIVITA at +39-02.433.53.521.
Ready for the really amazing bit?
It's only E.5!
Enjoy!
Friday, August 19, 2011
Photoless Friday (25): Butterflies!
Hurry hurry!
Until the 30th of August at the city's principal public garden, the Giardini pubblici, you can admire more than 50 kinds of butterflies from all over the world in a special pavilion.
The main entrance to the Giardini pubblici is on Piazza Cavour; entrances also on via Palestro and Corso di Porta Venezia. I think the pavilion is just behind the Natural History Museum, and so would be closer to these latter entrances.
From Tuesday to Friday: 3:30 P.M. - 6 P.M.
Saturday and Sunday: from 10:30 A.M. til 1 P.M., then again from 2 P.M. to 6:30 P.M.
Entrance fee E.5 (children up to and including the age of 4 enter free-of-charge)
For more information: http://www.oasidellefarfalle.it, tel. 393.513.3679
Too much excitement for one afternoon?
Recover at the "Caffè Letterario" located inside the gorgeous 15th century cloisters now housing the Teatro Grassi at the centrally located via Rovello, 2, almost at the corner of via Dante.
For more information: +39.72.333.505, http://www.sotisevents.com.
Enjoy!
Until the 30th of August at the city's principal public garden, the Giardini pubblici, you can admire more than 50 kinds of butterflies from all over the world in a special pavilion.
The main entrance to the Giardini pubblici is on Piazza Cavour; entrances also on via Palestro and Corso di Porta Venezia. I think the pavilion is just behind the Natural History Museum, and so would be closer to these latter entrances.
From Tuesday to Friday: 3:30 P.M. - 6 P.M.
Saturday and Sunday: from 10:30 A.M. til 1 P.M., then again from 2 P.M. to 6:30 P.M.
Entrance fee E.5 (children up to and including the age of 4 enter free-of-charge)
For more information: http://www.oasidellefarfalle.it, tel. 393.513.3679
Too much excitement for one afternoon?
Recover at the "Caffè Letterario" located inside the gorgeous 15th century cloisters now housing the Teatro Grassi at the centrally located via Rovello, 2, almost at the corner of via Dante.
For more information: +39.72.333.505, http://www.sotisevents.com.
Enjoy!
Friday, August 12, 2011
Photoless Friday (24): for Leonardo's "Last Supper" reserve your place in advance, and, in case you didn't, some hints about how to get in, anyway
You know how it goes...your Significant Other hates to plan ahead. YOU know better, of course, but, for the sake of peace in the family, you'll "go with the flow" maybe grinding your teeth as silently as possible, but it's not worth arguing about.
Besides, you've got that penetratingly whiney "I told you so" practiced to a "T."
You get to Milan, you discover that one of the world's masterpieces, Leonardo da Vinci's "Last Supper" is here. Even if you and S.O. are not great art fans, it's a once in a lifetime opportunity to see one of the Seven Wonders of today's world, so you call.
"I'm sorry, but access is all booked up until early October. We hope you'll come see us the next time you're in Milan, thank you for calling." (click)
The NEXT time you're in Milan?
The stars and planets had to be aligned to get your S.O. to agree to come here THIS time. What to do?...More......
For the sake of complete information, here's the web site in English of the company VIVA TICKET officially entrusted with selling the tickets to see this marvel (only so many people per day, in order to limit damage to the fresco from sweating, breathing and the dust we kick up, just by walking):
http://www.vivaticket.it/evento.php?id_evento=298097&op=cenacoloVinciano&change_language=1
The web site has a little calendar marking the days with available tours.
Don't get discouraged, though. Call anyway, they just might have last minute cancellations.
If your S.O. is the tightfisted kind, just GO anyway.
In the first place the adjoining church is a Renaissance marvel in and of itself, and has an apse the design of which is attributed to Bramante. "Who cares?," I hear you ask. You should care: he's the guy who, right after designing this apse, fled Milan just ahead of the invading French troops (their leader thought HE should be duke of Milan), made a bee line for papal Rome (popes and cardinals with bucks to spend on art and architecture commissions, he and lots of other artists of all sorts were no dummies), where he erected the little "Tempietto," considered the watershed structure for High Renaissance architecture.
In the second place, if there's only one, or two, of you, then you just might be able to squeeze into a group, or they might have last minute cancellations.
If you'd rather not traipse all the way out to the church (it's not that far, really, and the n. 16 tram stops right in front of it) not knowing whether, or not, you'll be able to get in to see the "Last Supper" (called the "Cenacolo" in Italian), then you have the option of participating in a (at E.55, a bit pricey, but worth it...one presumes that includes all the entrance fees!) morning, or afternoon, tour of all the highlights of Milan, which includes entry into the "Last Supper."
The company AUTOSTRADALE organizes morning and afternoon tours of Milan by bus. In addition to the "Last Supper," you'll be taken to see other important highlights (some varying depending on the days and on whether you take the morning, or afternoon, tour, but always including the Sforza Castle, the Duomo and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, one of my favorite places in Milan).
http://www.autostradale.it
Tel. +39-02.7200.1304 (if you're calling from inside Milan, start with the "02")
ENJOY!
Besides, you've got that penetratingly whiney "I told you so" practiced to a "T."
You get to Milan, you discover that one of the world's masterpieces, Leonardo da Vinci's "Last Supper" is here. Even if you and S.O. are not great art fans, it's a once in a lifetime opportunity to see one of the Seven Wonders of today's world, so you call.
"I'm sorry, but access is all booked up until early October. We hope you'll come see us the next time you're in Milan, thank you for calling." (click)
The NEXT time you're in Milan?
The stars and planets had to be aligned to get your S.O. to agree to come here THIS time. What to do?...More......
For the sake of complete information, here's the web site in English of the company VIVA TICKET officially entrusted with selling the tickets to see this marvel (only so many people per day, in order to limit damage to the fresco from sweating, breathing and the dust we kick up, just by walking):
http://www.vivaticket.it/evento.php?id_evento=298097&op=cenacoloVinciano&change_language=1
The web site has a little calendar marking the days with available tours.
Don't get discouraged, though. Call anyway, they just might have last minute cancellations.
If your S.O. is the tightfisted kind, just GO anyway.
In the first place the adjoining church is a Renaissance marvel in and of itself, and has an apse the design of which is attributed to Bramante. "Who cares?," I hear you ask. You should care: he's the guy who, right after designing this apse, fled Milan just ahead of the invading French troops (their leader thought HE should be duke of Milan), made a bee line for papal Rome (popes and cardinals with bucks to spend on art and architecture commissions, he and lots of other artists of all sorts were no dummies), where he erected the little "Tempietto," considered the watershed structure for High Renaissance architecture.
In the second place, if there's only one, or two, of you, then you just might be able to squeeze into a group, or they might have last minute cancellations.
If you'd rather not traipse all the way out to the church (it's not that far, really, and the n. 16 tram stops right in front of it) not knowing whether, or not, you'll be able to get in to see the "Last Supper" (called the "Cenacolo" in Italian), then you have the option of participating in a (at E.55, a bit pricey, but worth it...one presumes that includes all the entrance fees!) morning, or afternoon, tour of all the highlights of Milan, which includes entry into the "Last Supper."
The company AUTOSTRADALE organizes morning and afternoon tours of Milan by bus. In addition to the "Last Supper," you'll be taken to see other important highlights (some varying depending on the days and on whether you take the morning, or afternoon, tour, but always including the Sforza Castle, the Duomo and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, one of my favorite places in Milan).
http://www.autostradale.it
Tel. +39-02.7200.1304 (if you're calling from inside Milan, start with the "02")
ENJOY!
Friday, August 5, 2011
Photoless Friday (23): the Easy life in Milan, and more...
The pun was too good to pass up. If you are in Milan, one of the free helpful publications is...More......
...EASY MILAN (http://www.easymilano.it). Of the three free handy dandy publications in English available (we've talked about the other two, WHERE MILAN and MILANO MESE, before), this one is most focused on practical stuff, and so will be helpful for those living here. Its "classified ads" format, with some other paid advertising thrown in, is organized by subject, from Arts & Leisure to Worship, but not in alphabetical order [see me frown...], passing through employment opportunities along the way.
Coming to Milan to do some discount shopping? I guess if you're set on having that high end fashion brand splashed all over your clothes, you'd might as well spend 50% less (though it still escapes me, how a rinky dink not-even-very-good-quality cotton T-shirt could cost $500 and more in the first place). Here's yet another place to put on your list: NIKI, Viale Montenero, 78, not so far from centrally located Piazza 5 Giornate, tel. +39.02.546.88.55.
Summertime closures haunt the city, though, so call ahead.
Speaking of summertime closures, hungry after all that shopping? How about some Mexican food for lunch? It's already ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE to find a Mexican food restaurant open for lunch in Milan (boooooooo!). Where to go?
During the year (except for August), go to Otra Vez on Viale Monte Nero, about halfway between Piazza 5 Giornate and Piazza Medaglia d'Oro. "It's August, though!," I hear you cry. Fear not. The "sister" restaurant, Cueva Maya, on Viale Monte Nero, but closer to Piazza Medaglia d'Oro, is open for lunch (but only in August).
"How IS their food?," you ask. I just had lunch at Cueva Maya a couple of days ago, and it was pretty good (coming from Southern California, where Mexican food is native, I consider myself, if not an expert, at least quite informed).
Beware of getting burritos anywhere in Milan. ALWAYS ask first, "Do you fix your burritos ahead of time, and then heat them up in the microwave?" ("Preparate in anticipo i vostri burritos e poi li riscaldate nel micronde?") If the answer is "sì" (and it probably will be), pick something else. At Cueva Maya, that "something else" interesting on the menu was a 'taco' with grilled beef, which turned out to be a thick flour tortilla heated on the grill, then folded in half around the stuffing. Wasn't anything like the tacos (with stiff deep-fried corn tortillas) I know. Turns out to be the burrito I had wanted all along, just not double folded, but I was all the happier for it.
How about the hot sauce for dipping the tortilla chips? Unlike a different (and supposedly snazzy) Mexican food restaurant I tried a few months back, at least here it seems like the tomatoes of their sauce were fresh, not canned (boooooo!), but there was too much hot pepper and not enough cilantro for my taste...in fact, you could hardly taste the cilantro at all...was it more authentically Mexican this way? Was it adjusted for Italian taste buds? I don't know. Maybe one of my gazillion (11) readers is Mexican, and will be able to answer this searing question.
How was the bill at the end of the meal? A heck of a lot for Mexican food, in my book, but not so bad for Milanese standards: E.15 for the taco (with a spoon each of refriend beans, sour cream and guacamole and a bit of greens, but I didn't go away hungry) and E.3 for the bottle of water, a whoppin' E.18 plus the E.2 tip for a grand total of E.20 ($28.20 at the current exchange rate of 1.41...OUCH! I wish I hadn't done that calculation).
Would I go back?
Now that I've seen that calculation, I'll be MUCH less tempted, until I can't resist the Mexican food bug bite any longer...maybe next year..., but in their defense, that plate was pretty darn close to what I consider good Mexican food.
...EASY MILAN (http://www.easymilano.it). Of the three free handy dandy publications in English available (we've talked about the other two, WHERE MILAN and MILANO MESE, before), this one is most focused on practical stuff, and so will be helpful for those living here. Its "classified ads" format, with some other paid advertising thrown in, is organized by subject, from Arts & Leisure to Worship, but not in alphabetical order [see me frown...], passing through employment opportunities along the way.
Coming to Milan to do some discount shopping? I guess if you're set on having that high end fashion brand splashed all over your clothes, you'd might as well spend 50% less (though it still escapes me, how a rinky dink not-even-very-good-quality cotton T-shirt could cost $500 and more in the first place). Here's yet another place to put on your list: NIKI, Viale Montenero, 78, not so far from centrally located Piazza 5 Giornate, tel. +39.02.546.88.55.
Summertime closures haunt the city, though, so call ahead.
Speaking of summertime closures, hungry after all that shopping? How about some Mexican food for lunch? It's already ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE to find a Mexican food restaurant open for lunch in Milan (boooooooo!). Where to go?
During the year (except for August), go to Otra Vez on Viale Monte Nero, about halfway between Piazza 5 Giornate and Piazza Medaglia d'Oro. "It's August, though!," I hear you cry. Fear not. The "sister" restaurant, Cueva Maya, on Viale Monte Nero, but closer to Piazza Medaglia d'Oro, is open for lunch (but only in August).
"How IS their food?," you ask. I just had lunch at Cueva Maya a couple of days ago, and it was pretty good (coming from Southern California, where Mexican food is native, I consider myself, if not an expert, at least quite informed).
Beware of getting burritos anywhere in Milan. ALWAYS ask first, "Do you fix your burritos ahead of time, and then heat them up in the microwave?" ("Preparate in anticipo i vostri burritos e poi li riscaldate nel micronde?") If the answer is "sì" (and it probably will be), pick something else. At Cueva Maya, that "something else" interesting on the menu was a 'taco' with grilled beef, which turned out to be a thick flour tortilla heated on the grill, then folded in half around the stuffing. Wasn't anything like the tacos (with stiff deep-fried corn tortillas) I know. Turns out to be the burrito I had wanted all along, just not double folded, but I was all the happier for it.
How about the hot sauce for dipping the tortilla chips? Unlike a different (and supposedly snazzy) Mexican food restaurant I tried a few months back, at least here it seems like the tomatoes of their sauce were fresh, not canned (boooooo!), but there was too much hot pepper and not enough cilantro for my taste...in fact, you could hardly taste the cilantro at all...was it more authentically Mexican this way? Was it adjusted for Italian taste buds? I don't know. Maybe one of my gazillion (11) readers is Mexican, and will be able to answer this searing question.
How was the bill at the end of the meal? A heck of a lot for Mexican food, in my book, but not so bad for Milanese standards: E.15 for the taco (with a spoon each of refriend beans, sour cream and guacamole and a bit of greens, but I didn't go away hungry) and E.3 for the bottle of water, a whoppin' E.18 plus the E.2 tip for a grand total of E.20 ($28.20 at the current exchange rate of 1.41...OUCH! I wish I hadn't done that calculation).
Would I go back?
Now that I've seen that calculation, I'll be MUCH less tempted, until I can't resist the Mexican food bug bite any longer...maybe next year..., but in their defense, that plate was pretty darn close to what I consider good Mexican food.
Friday, July 29, 2011
Photoless Friday (22): a few more fun things to do in Milan (including golf and tennis!)
Let's start today's "Photoless Friday" with a fun thing to do in Milan that is about to close, shall we?...More......
... (N.B., for my ESL students, that's just aboout the only time you'll hear an American speaker of English use the word "shall," which is vedddddddddy Britishhhhh.)
Looking for something to do in Milan, as parts of the city settle down for a month-long summertime siesta?
Run to the Duomo! Tomorrow, the 30th of July, is the last day of special organized guided tours (in English, or Italian), which include the cathedral, itself, the underlying remains of the Baptistry of San Giovanni, the Duomo's treasury (small, but some gorgeous and historic stuff), and access--via elevator for most of the way, thank you--to the Duomo's terrace. Today and tomorrow should be lovely, with a few puffy clouds (if the weather man has hit it on the nose), so this is a good opportunity. E.20 (gulp..., but you do get a lot of bang for your buck)...here's the interesting bit: online payment only (http://www.duomomilano.it)...now how do they expect tourists to do that? Just in case, in the block of buildings behind the Duomo, with your back to the apse of the Duomo, just under the portico on the right hand side is the tourist office for the Duomo...try asking and paying there. Ya' never know.
Before we get to more fun stuff, a practical hint. Yes, Italian phone numbers are not consistently constituted of seven numbers...in the first place, the earliest phone numbers had only a few numbers, say four, because so few people had phones; when more people got phones, what to do?, they just added numbers...makes sense to me...then, a few years ago, it became obbligatory, even within the same town, to dial the city's dialing prefix, too, so just know that +39 is the country code and everything else after that has to be dialed, even if you're dialing from within the same city.
Now, back to the fun stuff!
Here's something I've been wanting to do, myself: take a boat trip along Milan's "Naviglio Grande" (Grand Canal...I have mentioned, before, that Milan once was criss-crossed by canals supplied with water from the nearby rivers, ancient highways...). These trips are available until the 18th of September, but don't keep putting it off, like I do each year, or the deadline will be upon you in a flash, and you'll have other plans that can't be delayed. Regular departure times, varying days, E.12. Contact the Navigli Lombardi, via Copernico, 42, tel. +39.02.66.79.131.
Golf fan? Happy to let your Significant Other patter about town, while you hit a few holes? Here are some of the many clubs located in and around Milan (golf club info taken from the June 2011 issue of Where Milan):
San Siro Golf: a new driving range located at the Ippodromo (horse-racing track...where the hypothetical reconstruction of Leonardo Da Vinci's horse is...remember?...I talked about that a few Photoless Fridays ago...) in Piazzale dello Sport, 12, tel. +39-02.4821.6293.
Castello di Tolcinasco Golf and Country Club: a 27-hole championship course located in Pieve Emanuele in the province of Milan. An exclusive golf club built around an old sixteenth century castle. tel. +39-02.9042.8035.
Golf Club Milano: here's a good one...a golf club called "Milan," but in the nearby city of Monza, a 27-hole course set within the Parco Reale (Royal Park). The facility was established in 1928, and is a CONI gold-star award winner for sporting achievements. tel. +39-039.30.30.81.
Golf Club Ambrosiano: an 18-hole course located in Bubbiano, also on the outskirts (or, as we say here with our Austrian background, the "hinterland") of Milan. This club is a "Kosaido European Tour" associate. tel. +39.02.9084.0820.
Golf Club Le Rovedine: an 18-hole course in Noverasco di Opera (also in the hinterland of Milan), tel. +39.02.5760.6420.
Molinetto Country Club: an 18-hole course in Cernusco sul Naviglio (also in the hinterland of Milan). On-site facilities include a swimming pool, restaurant and 14 (!) tennis courts, tel. +39.02.9210.5128.
Golf Crema Resort: a 27-hole course located in the (relatively) nearby city of Crema. A jewel of the lower Po river valley, Crema also has lots of historic art and architecture to offer, tel. +39.0373.23.13.57.
Enjoy!
... (N.B., for my ESL students, that's just aboout the only time you'll hear an American speaker of English use the word "shall," which is vedddddddddy Britishhhhh.)
Looking for something to do in Milan, as parts of the city settle down for a month-long summertime siesta?
Run to the Duomo! Tomorrow, the 30th of July, is the last day of special organized guided tours (in English, or Italian), which include the cathedral, itself, the underlying remains of the Baptistry of San Giovanni, the Duomo's treasury (small, but some gorgeous and historic stuff), and access--via elevator for most of the way, thank you--to the Duomo's terrace. Today and tomorrow should be lovely, with a few puffy clouds (if the weather man has hit it on the nose), so this is a good opportunity. E.20 (gulp..., but you do get a lot of bang for your buck)...here's the interesting bit: online payment only (http://www.duomomilano.it)...now how do they expect tourists to do that? Just in case, in the block of buildings behind the Duomo, with your back to the apse of the Duomo, just under the portico on the right hand side is the tourist office for the Duomo...try asking and paying there. Ya' never know.
Before we get to more fun stuff, a practical hint. Yes, Italian phone numbers are not consistently constituted of seven numbers...in the first place, the earliest phone numbers had only a few numbers, say four, because so few people had phones; when more people got phones, what to do?, they just added numbers...makes sense to me...then, a few years ago, it became obbligatory, even within the same town, to dial the city's dialing prefix, too, so just know that +39 is the country code and everything else after that has to be dialed, even if you're dialing from within the same city.
Now, back to the fun stuff!
Here's something I've been wanting to do, myself: take a boat trip along Milan's "Naviglio Grande" (Grand Canal...I have mentioned, before, that Milan once was criss-crossed by canals supplied with water from the nearby rivers, ancient highways...). These trips are available until the 18th of September, but don't keep putting it off, like I do each year, or the deadline will be upon you in a flash, and you'll have other plans that can't be delayed. Regular departure times, varying days, E.12. Contact the Navigli Lombardi, via Copernico, 42, tel. +39.02.66.79.131.
Golf fan? Happy to let your Significant Other patter about town, while you hit a few holes? Here are some of the many clubs located in and around Milan (golf club info taken from the June 2011 issue of Where Milan):
San Siro Golf: a new driving range located at the Ippodromo (horse-racing track...where the hypothetical reconstruction of Leonardo Da Vinci's horse is...remember?...I talked about that a few Photoless Fridays ago...) in Piazzale dello Sport, 12, tel. +39-02.4821.6293.
Castello di Tolcinasco Golf and Country Club: a 27-hole championship course located in Pieve Emanuele in the province of Milan. An exclusive golf club built around an old sixteenth century castle. tel. +39-02.9042.8035.
Golf Club Milano: here's a good one...a golf club called "Milan," but in the nearby city of Monza, a 27-hole course set within the Parco Reale (Royal Park). The facility was established in 1928, and is a CONI gold-star award winner for sporting achievements. tel. +39-039.30.30.81.
Golf Club Ambrosiano: an 18-hole course located in Bubbiano, also on the outskirts (or, as we say here with our Austrian background, the "hinterland") of Milan. This club is a "Kosaido European Tour" associate. tel. +39.02.9084.0820.
Golf Club Le Rovedine: an 18-hole course in Noverasco di Opera (also in the hinterland of Milan), tel. +39.02.5760.6420.
Molinetto Country Club: an 18-hole course in Cernusco sul Naviglio (also in the hinterland of Milan). On-site facilities include a swimming pool, restaurant and 14 (!) tennis courts, tel. +39.02.9210.5128.
Golf Crema Resort: a 27-hole course located in the (relatively) nearby city of Crema. A jewel of the lower Po river valley, Crema also has lots of historic art and architecture to offer, tel. +39.0373.23.13.57.
Enjoy!
Friday, July 15, 2011
Photoless Friday (21): We've done "Milano Mese," now it's the turn of "Where Milan"
Man, the work load ain't lettin' up...it's gettin' worse...so I'll have to be brief, but missed chatting with you, so here's another heads up for how to find fun stuff to do in Milan: "Where Milan"...More......
Whereas "Milano Mese," the pocket-sized font of the info of my recent posts on what to do in town, is more oriented to cultural activities of all sorts, for the locals and for visitors, "Where Milan" is magazine-sized, and is oriented more to visitors.
How is it possible to tell?
"Milano Mese" is set up by theme, yes, but also by closing dates (like a calendar in prose), and has activities of all sorts: exhibit and gallery openings and closings (personally, I wish they wouldn't mix the notices for museums--where stuff isn't for sale--and galleries--where stuff is for sale--...it's not good deontologically, and is confusing to boot), music for all tastes and hours of the day (or night), activities for kids, festivals of all kinds from folkloristic to you-name-it.
In addition to the above kinds of entertainment, "Where Milan" (http://www.wheremilan.com) also gives hints about (citing from their index): shopping, dining and essentials.
There's your clue: someone, who lives in Milan, may enjoy hunting up new places to eat and shop, but doesn't need a monthly reference guide for it. In addition, the layout is more...magazine-y, more eye-catching, and has short articles (or, at least article-y introductions to their info structured as little paragraphs, not name-date-place-cost lists). It helps being in a bigger format.
The July 2011 issue, for example, has bits on luxury shopping (the little maps to the Montenapoleone area have our museum, the Bagatti Valsecchi Museum--via Gesù 5--on it, yeah!!!) and...yumm!...gelato in Milan. At the back of the magazine is a map of the metro lines and a pretty darn detailed map of the heart of downtown (again, with our museum on it, yeah!!!).
Both "Milano Mese" and "Where Milan" are free and available in various obvious places around time (example: bookstores, hotel lobbies, the city's official info offices, museum lobbies, etc.).
Now, folks, as much as I love chatting with you, it's back to work for me! Have a good weekend! (But bring your umbrella...I saw the weather forecasts...today is GORGEOUS, but the clouds...and some cool air, Thank the Cosmos...is blowing in, just in time for the weekend, and should last 'til Monday, oh lucky us!, but after this recent spate of torrid heat and humidity, believe me, I'm not complaining about the rain!)
Whereas "Milano Mese," the pocket-sized font of the info of my recent posts on what to do in town, is more oriented to cultural activities of all sorts, for the locals and for visitors, "Where Milan" is magazine-sized, and is oriented more to visitors.
How is it possible to tell?
"Milano Mese" is set up by theme, yes, but also by closing dates (like a calendar in prose), and has activities of all sorts: exhibit and gallery openings and closings (personally, I wish they wouldn't mix the notices for museums--where stuff isn't for sale--and galleries--where stuff is for sale--...it's not good deontologically, and is confusing to boot), music for all tastes and hours of the day (or night), activities for kids, festivals of all kinds from folkloristic to you-name-it.
In addition to the above kinds of entertainment, "Where Milan" (http://www.wheremilan.com) also gives hints about (citing from their index): shopping, dining and essentials.
There's your clue: someone, who lives in Milan, may enjoy hunting up new places to eat and shop, but doesn't need a monthly reference guide for it. In addition, the layout is more...magazine-y, more eye-catching, and has short articles (or, at least article-y introductions to their info structured as little paragraphs, not name-date-place-cost lists). It helps being in a bigger format.
The July 2011 issue, for example, has bits on luxury shopping (the little maps to the Montenapoleone area have our museum, the Bagatti Valsecchi Museum--via Gesù 5--on it, yeah!!!) and...yumm!...gelato in Milan. At the back of the magazine is a map of the metro lines and a pretty darn detailed map of the heart of downtown (again, with our museum on it, yeah!!!).
Both "Milano Mese" and "Where Milan" are free and available in various obvious places around time (example: bookstores, hotel lobbies, the city's official info offices, museum lobbies, etc.).
Now, folks, as much as I love chatting with you, it's back to work for me! Have a good weekend! (But bring your umbrella...I saw the weather forecasts...today is GORGEOUS, but the clouds...and some cool air, Thank the Cosmos...is blowing in, just in time for the weekend, and should last 'til Monday, oh lucky us!, but after this recent spate of torrid heat and humidity, believe me, I'm not complaining about the rain!)
Friday, July 8, 2011
Photoless Friday (20): What's on in Milan
Whoosh, it's already Photoless Friday, again!, and it's another good' un'! Loads of great summertime stuff to do, and a lot of it free, and some of it about to close, so hurry up...More......
Let's start off with the stuff about to expire, then I'll list the stuff stretching out over the whole summer in Milan...so the next "What's on in Milan" messages can be dedicated only to the stuff getting ready to end (mostly art, just because that's what interests me the most).
Art your thing? Here are some of the things in Milan that look interesting to me (hence, you'll probably not find much--if anything at all--on modern/contemporary art), which are closing soon (remember that most museums are closed on Mondays):
Il teatro alla moda. Costume di scena. Grandi stilisti (Fashionable Theater. Event costumes. Great stylists). Closes: Sunday, 10 July. Palazzo Morando, via Sant'Andrea, 6. Tickets E. 8. Hours 9 A.M. to 5:30 P.M. For info: tel. +39.02.8846.5933, http://www.civicheraccoltestoriche.it.
L'anima di gomma (Rubber spirit)...should be about the nexus of aesthetic, technical aspects and fashion. Closes: 24 July. Triennale di Milano, viale Emilio Alemagna, 6. 10:30 A.M.-8:30 P.M. (Thursday/Friday until 11 P.M.) No entrance fee info listed, but could be a typo. For further information: +39.02.724.341.
Espressioni di Gio Ponti (Expressions of Gio Ponti). Closes: 24 July. Triennale di Milano, viale Emilio Alemagna, 6. 10:30 A.M. - 8:30 P.M. (Thursdays/Fridays until 11 P.M.). Entrance fee: E. 8. Thursday and Friday, from 7 P.M., entrance fee is E. 13, and includes Happy Hour at the Design Cafè. For information: +39.02.724.341.
Man Ray. Femmes e mode au Congo (Man Ray. Women and fashion in the Congo) [photographs]. Studio Marconi '65, via Tadino, 17. Closes 29 July. Hours: 10:30 A.M.-12:30 A.M., 3:30 P.M.-7 P.M. Free entrance. Closed Saturday and Sunday. For information: +39.02.295.11.297.
The Fifty Faces of Juliet [50 Man Ray photographs]. Closes 29 July. Fondazione Marconi, via Tadino, 15. 10:30 A.M.-12:30 A.M., 3:30 P.M.-7 P.M. Free entrance. Closed Saturday and Sunday. For information: +39.02.294.19.232.
Gio Ponti. Il fascino della ceramica (Gio Ponti. The allure of ceramics). Closes 31 July. Grattaceilo Pirelli, piazza Duca d'Aosta, 1. Hours: 3 P.M.-7 P.M. (Saturdays and Sundays: 10 A.M. - 7 P.M.). Entrance: free. For further information: +39-0541-787.681.
A Tribute to Photography. Primo Marella Gallery, 2. Viale Stelvio, 66. Closes: 31 July. No hours or entrance fee listed, but since it's a gallery, they might be expecting people to buy the works exhibited: forewarned is forearmed. For information. +39.02.8738.4885.
Like sports? On the Naviglio Grande (Grand Canal) there will be the Stranavigli on the 16th of July from 11 A.M. til 8 P.M. Described as a "creative water competition," it's a light-hearted competition dedicated to interesting kids in water sports and cementing good relationships between the various associations involved. Free admission, but signing up to the event is requested. For further info: +39.02.66.79.131, http://www.naviglilombardi.it.
Bike? In bici alla scoperta di Milano (Discovering Milan while riding bikes) proposes a "Milan: True and False" itinerary, departing from the Palazzo Reale, Piazza Duomo, 12 (no time given). Fee: E.1. For more info: http://www.ciclobby.it.
The World Championship of Wakeboard at Milan's artifical lake (which, itself, deserves a separate post) is coming up, rapidly. Though the Idroscalo is out of town, it's easy to get to (take the "73/" bus from Corso Europa, and get off the "tribune" entrance). Dates: July 12-17, 2011. Check out the official webside of the wakeboarding: http://www.federazionescinautico.com. the Idroscalo will host activities for different interests: public art garden, children's activities, music...
...for example, like to wallow in the Blues? (no pun intended, but it's a pretty good one) From the 20th to the 21st of July starting at 9:30 P.M. at the "Idroscalo," there will be Blues in Idro, jazz concerts free-of-charge once inside the Idroscalo area (thought I think you have to pay to get into the Idroscalo).
For more info about all the activities at the Idroscalo, see: http://www.idroscalo.info.
Music fan and can't get enough of jazz? International musicians play at the Milan Jazzin' Festival from the first of July (ahem) to the 6th of August at the Arena Civica Gianni Brera, viale G. Byron, 2. Entrance fee: (looks like it varies event to event). Begins at 9 P.M. For more information: http://www.fourone.it.
[Would someone please bring Mose Allison to Milan???!!! http://moseallison.com/]
Prefer classical music? The Milano Arte Musica: international festival of antique music has reached its fifth edition. It starts on the 20th of July, and ends on the 29th of August. Events begin at 8:30 P.M. and take place in different venues. Tickets are E. 10, on sale at the door at least 40 minutes prior to each concert; they may also be reserved: www.vivaticket.it. For more program information: http://www.lacappellamusicale.it, or call +39-02-7631.7176.
Prefer galavanting around after work? There also are Discovering Milan visits to the Last Supper and Santa Maria delle Grazie, to the Duomo and to the Basilica of Sant'Ambrogio planned for the evenings, beginning at 7:30 P.M. or at 8:00 P.M. (please gather at least 15 mintues prior to departure time). Tickets cost E. 13, and prepayment and reservations are obbligatory. For information, tickets and reservations: Ad Artem, +39.02.659.7728.
Rather follow literature, cinema, science, arte, philosophy and...video games...(together with art and philosophy, go figure)? From the end of June (ahem) to the 12th of July, the "Lies and Truths" series of La Milanesiana 2011 is for you. Entrance is free, but only with reservations: +39.02.8738.7707, rsvp@fondazionecorriere.it, http://www.fondazionecorriere.it.
Want to get a bird's eye view of Milan?
There are two ways to do it: (1) from the terrace of the Duomo (up til the 24th of October, from 9 A.M. til 9 P.M. with elevator...which still leaves you with a flight of stairs, but only until 5:15 P.M. if you want to take the stairs all the way...are you nuts?!, E.5-8; for more info: http://www.duomomilanol.it); or (2) the Torre Branca (Branca Tower, til the 15th of October, via Camoens, Parco Sempione, hours are screwy, better check the web site: http://www.branca.it/it/mondo/torre-branca.asp, check it for the fee, too). Actually, come to think of it, there's a third way, too: I think the caffè at the top of the Pirelli tower (that tall white polygonal tower just in front of the Central train station) is open...that tower houses regional offices.
Notti magiche al Castello. Sotterranei serali (Magic nights at the castle. Nighttime visits to the underground tunnels). Possibile until the 15th of october. Fee: E. 10. Screwy hours here, too, but reservations are obbligatory, so call Ad Artem, +39.02.659.6937.
Naviga lungo i navigli di Leonardo (Navigate along the canals of Leonardo da Vinci). Navigli lombardi, via Copernico, 42. Fee: E. 12. Departure times: 10.15 A.M., 11.20 A.M., 12.25 A.M., 3 P.M., 4:05 P.M., 5:10 P.M., 6:15 P.M. For more info, check the site, or call: http://www.naviglilombardi.it, Autostradale: +39.02.339.10.794.
Feel like helping Italy celebrate its 150th anniversary? There's a concert (music written by Padre Davide da Bergamo) in honor of the Unification of Italy at the Duomo of Milan, in the piazza, starting at 7 P.M. on the 15th of July.
Wondering about that padre? How about some Giuseppe Verdi to honor the Unification, instead? I Lombardi alla prima crociata (The Lombards during the First Crusade) will be played on the "Salita alle Terrazze," piazza Duomo, also at 7 P.M. (Repeat performance: 18th of July at 9:30 P.M.) For more information about both of these two: http://www.duomomilano.it.
Stop! Stop! Stop! There's so much more music, in the churches and in various venues. Guess who's coming to town? ... Lou Reed, Afterhours, Chicago, George Benson, Take That, Cyndi Lauper, Paul Simon, the Buena Vista Social Club, Duran Duran...all--except Take That (who'll play at the San Siro stadium, via dei Piccolomini, 5, fees: from E.36,80-92, 3:30 P.M., no telephone or web site given, so you'll have to hunt it up, yourself)--are at the Arena Civica (Civic Arena), viale G. Byron, 2, fees vary, for more information: http://www.fourone.it.
Want to combine music and art? At the Galleria d'Arte Moderna di Milano-GAM (Modern Art Gallery), via Palestro, 16, at 9:30 P.M. on the 22nd of July there will be the music of Verdi, Rossini and Bellini: Il canto degli italiani. Notturni in villa. Omaggio all'Italia (The Song of the Italians. Nighttime in the villa. Homage to Italy). Free admission. For more information: tel. +39.02.8912.2383, or http://www.amicidellamusicamilano.it.
Outdoor cinema, anyone? The annual summertime Arianto series has begun. Three venues, all starting at 9 P.M., fee: E. 6,50. For more information: tel. +39.02.659.7732, http://www.spaziocinema.info. (A WORD TO THE WISE: come slathered with anti-mosquito stuff.)
Craft and flea markets your thing? For starters, there's the Senigallia in the Porta Genova and surrounding areas every Saturday of July from 8 A.M. to 6 P.M.
Along the Martesana canal (Naviglio) there's another open-air vintage and craft market every first and third Sunday of the month. The next appointment in July is for the 17th, from 10 A.M. to 7 P.M. For info: http://www.elmercatelsulamartesana.it.
Thursdays in the area of Porta Genova there is the Ambrosiani antique and flea market from 7 A.M. to 3 P.M., for info call: 331.586.8336.
On the 17th of July, from 9 A.M. til 6 P.M., in via Fiori Chiari, via Madonnina, via Formentini there will be the Brera antique market, which takes place every third Sunday of the month. No further information given.
What, finally, to do with the kids?????
Here are a few good suggestions to finish off this list:
Pecci Playart&Drink: park the kids in workshops dedicated to music, while you treat yourself to an aperitif at the open bar, free for the kids...they don't say about the drinks! The hours are from 5:30 P.M. til 7 P.M. The days seem to be only every Monday til Monday the 25th of July. Museo Pecci Milano, Ripa di Porta Ticinese, 113. For more info: 0574.531.820.
Sforzinda, Sforza Castle, Piazza Castello. Games and activities to acquaint the families and kids (and not just the Milanese) with the castle. Closed Monday morning. Fee: E.1 per child; 6 activity booklet for E.5. Reservations are obbligatory: tel. +39.02.8846.3792, http://www.milanocastello.it.
Triennale Museum Kids, Triennale di Milano, viale Emilio Alemagna, 6. Workshops with special itineraries for kids through the museum's collections. Closed Mondays, the other days (though the info is a bit confused), it looks like the hours are from 10:30 A.M. to 11 P.M. Fee: E. 8. To check information: tel. +39.02.7243.4305, http://www.kids.triennaledesignmuseum.it/home.
MuseoEstate 2011, Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci, via San Vittore, 21. Workshops, activities and guided tours for the whole family pretty much from 10 A.M. til 5 P.M. everyday esxcept Monday (some days even until 7 P.M.). Fee: E. 10. For more info: +39.02.48.555.1
And this is just a taste of what Milan has to offer, as listed in the Milanomese, see also http://www.visitamilano.it.
Whew! Typing all this took me so long, it's not Friday here, anymore, it's already after midnight, but I hope you'll forgive me, and...
Enjoy!
Let's start off with the stuff about to expire, then I'll list the stuff stretching out over the whole summer in Milan...so the next "What's on in Milan" messages can be dedicated only to the stuff getting ready to end (mostly art, just because that's what interests me the most).
Art your thing? Here are some of the things in Milan that look interesting to me (hence, you'll probably not find much--if anything at all--on modern/contemporary art), which are closing soon (remember that most museums are closed on Mondays):
Il teatro alla moda. Costume di scena. Grandi stilisti (Fashionable Theater. Event costumes. Great stylists). Closes: Sunday, 10 July. Palazzo Morando, via Sant'Andrea, 6. Tickets E. 8. Hours 9 A.M. to 5:30 P.M. For info: tel. +39.02.8846.5933, http://www.civicheraccoltestoriche.it.
L'anima di gomma (Rubber spirit)...should be about the nexus of aesthetic, technical aspects and fashion. Closes: 24 July. Triennale di Milano, viale Emilio Alemagna, 6. 10:30 A.M.-8:30 P.M. (Thursday/Friday until 11 P.M.) No entrance fee info listed, but could be a typo. For further information: +39.02.724.341.
Espressioni di Gio Ponti (Expressions of Gio Ponti). Closes: 24 July. Triennale di Milano, viale Emilio Alemagna, 6. 10:30 A.M. - 8:30 P.M. (Thursdays/Fridays until 11 P.M.). Entrance fee: E. 8. Thursday and Friday, from 7 P.M., entrance fee is E. 13, and includes Happy Hour at the Design Cafè. For information: +39.02.724.341.
Man Ray. Femmes e mode au Congo (Man Ray. Women and fashion in the Congo) [photographs]. Studio Marconi '65, via Tadino, 17. Closes 29 July. Hours: 10:30 A.M.-12:30 A.M., 3:30 P.M.-7 P.M. Free entrance. Closed Saturday and Sunday. For information: +39.02.295.11.297.
The Fifty Faces of Juliet [50 Man Ray photographs]. Closes 29 July. Fondazione Marconi, via Tadino, 15. 10:30 A.M.-12:30 A.M., 3:30 P.M.-7 P.M. Free entrance. Closed Saturday and Sunday. For information: +39.02.294.19.232.
Gio Ponti. Il fascino della ceramica (Gio Ponti. The allure of ceramics). Closes 31 July. Grattaceilo Pirelli, piazza Duca d'Aosta, 1. Hours: 3 P.M.-7 P.M. (Saturdays and Sundays: 10 A.M. - 7 P.M.). Entrance: free. For further information: +39-0541-787.681.
A Tribute to Photography. Primo Marella Gallery, 2. Viale Stelvio, 66. Closes: 31 July. No hours or entrance fee listed, but since it's a gallery, they might be expecting people to buy the works exhibited: forewarned is forearmed. For information. +39.02.8738.4885.
Like sports? On the Naviglio Grande (Grand Canal) there will be the Stranavigli on the 16th of July from 11 A.M. til 8 P.M. Described as a "creative water competition," it's a light-hearted competition dedicated to interesting kids in water sports and cementing good relationships between the various associations involved. Free admission, but signing up to the event is requested. For further info: +39.02.66.79.131, http://www.naviglilombardi.it.
Bike? In bici alla scoperta di Milano (Discovering Milan while riding bikes) proposes a "Milan: True and False" itinerary, departing from the Palazzo Reale, Piazza Duomo, 12 (no time given). Fee: E.1. For more info: http://www.ciclobby.it.
The World Championship of Wakeboard at Milan's artifical lake (which, itself, deserves a separate post) is coming up, rapidly. Though the Idroscalo is out of town, it's easy to get to (take the "73/" bus from Corso Europa, and get off the "tribune" entrance). Dates: July 12-17, 2011. Check out the official webside of the wakeboarding: http://www.federazionescinautico.com. the Idroscalo will host activities for different interests: public art garden, children's activities, music...
...for example, like to wallow in the Blues? (no pun intended, but it's a pretty good one) From the 20th to the 21st of July starting at 9:30 P.M. at the "Idroscalo," there will be Blues in Idro, jazz concerts free-of-charge once inside the Idroscalo area (thought I think you have to pay to get into the Idroscalo).
For more info about all the activities at the Idroscalo, see: http://www.idroscalo.info.
Music fan and can't get enough of jazz? International musicians play at the Milan Jazzin' Festival from the first of July (ahem) to the 6th of August at the Arena Civica Gianni Brera, viale G. Byron, 2. Entrance fee: (looks like it varies event to event). Begins at 9 P.M. For more information: http://www.fourone.it.
[Would someone please bring Mose Allison to Milan???!!! http://moseallison.com/]
Prefer classical music? The Milano Arte Musica: international festival of antique music has reached its fifth edition. It starts on the 20th of July, and ends on the 29th of August. Events begin at 8:30 P.M. and take place in different venues. Tickets are E. 10, on sale at the door at least 40 minutes prior to each concert; they may also be reserved: www.vivaticket.it. For more program information: http://www.lacappellamusicale.it, or call +39-02-7631.7176.
Prefer galavanting around after work? There also are Discovering Milan visits to the Last Supper and Santa Maria delle Grazie, to the Duomo and to the Basilica of Sant'Ambrogio planned for the evenings, beginning at 7:30 P.M. or at 8:00 P.M. (please gather at least 15 mintues prior to departure time). Tickets cost E. 13, and prepayment and reservations are obbligatory. For information, tickets and reservations: Ad Artem, +39.02.659.7728.
Rather follow literature, cinema, science, arte, philosophy and...video games...(together with art and philosophy, go figure)? From the end of June (ahem) to the 12th of July, the "Lies and Truths" series of La Milanesiana 2011 is for you. Entrance is free, but only with reservations: +39.02.8738.7707, rsvp@fondazionecorriere.it, http://www.fondazionecorriere.it.
Want to get a bird's eye view of Milan?
There are two ways to do it: (1) from the terrace of the Duomo (up til the 24th of October, from 9 A.M. til 9 P.M. with elevator...which still leaves you with a flight of stairs, but only until 5:15 P.M. if you want to take the stairs all the way...are you nuts?!, E.5-8; for more info: http://www.duomomilanol.it); or (2) the Torre Branca (Branca Tower, til the 15th of October, via Camoens, Parco Sempione, hours are screwy, better check the web site: http://www.branca.it/it/mondo/torre-branca.asp, check it for the fee, too). Actually, come to think of it, there's a third way, too: I think the caffè at the top of the Pirelli tower (that tall white polygonal tower just in front of the Central train station) is open...that tower houses regional offices.
Notti magiche al Castello. Sotterranei serali (Magic nights at the castle. Nighttime visits to the underground tunnels). Possibile until the 15th of october. Fee: E. 10. Screwy hours here, too, but reservations are obbligatory, so call Ad Artem, +39.02.659.6937.
Naviga lungo i navigli di Leonardo (Navigate along the canals of Leonardo da Vinci). Navigli lombardi, via Copernico, 42. Fee: E. 12. Departure times: 10.15 A.M., 11.20 A.M., 12.25 A.M., 3 P.M., 4:05 P.M., 5:10 P.M., 6:15 P.M. For more info, check the site, or call: http://www.naviglilombardi.it, Autostradale: +39.02.339.10.794.
Feel like helping Italy celebrate its 150th anniversary? There's a concert (music written by Padre Davide da Bergamo) in honor of the Unification of Italy at the Duomo of Milan, in the piazza, starting at 7 P.M. on the 15th of July.
Wondering about that padre? How about some Giuseppe Verdi to honor the Unification, instead? I Lombardi alla prima crociata (The Lombards during the First Crusade) will be played on the "Salita alle Terrazze," piazza Duomo, also at 7 P.M. (Repeat performance: 18th of July at 9:30 P.M.) For more information about both of these two: http://www.duomomilano.it.
Stop! Stop! Stop! There's so much more music, in the churches and in various venues. Guess who's coming to town? ... Lou Reed, Afterhours, Chicago, George Benson, Take That, Cyndi Lauper, Paul Simon, the Buena Vista Social Club, Duran Duran...all--except Take That (who'll play at the San Siro stadium, via dei Piccolomini, 5, fees: from E.36,80-92, 3:30 P.M., no telephone or web site given, so you'll have to hunt it up, yourself)--are at the Arena Civica (Civic Arena), viale G. Byron, 2, fees vary, for more information: http://www.fourone.it.
Want to combine music and art? At the Galleria d'Arte Moderna di Milano-GAM (Modern Art Gallery), via Palestro, 16, at 9:30 P.M. on the 22nd of July there will be the music of Verdi, Rossini and Bellini: Il canto degli italiani. Notturni in villa. Omaggio all'Italia (The Song of the Italians. Nighttime in the villa. Homage to Italy). Free admission. For more information: tel. +39.02.8912.2383, or http://www.amicidellamusicamilano.it.
Outdoor cinema, anyone? The annual summertime Arianto series has begun. Three venues, all starting at 9 P.M., fee: E. 6,50. For more information: tel. +39.02.659.7732, http://www.spaziocinema.info. (A WORD TO THE WISE: come slathered with anti-mosquito stuff.)
Craft and flea markets your thing? For starters, there's the Senigallia in the Porta Genova and surrounding areas every Saturday of July from 8 A.M. to 6 P.M.
Along the Martesana canal (Naviglio) there's another open-air vintage and craft market every first and third Sunday of the month. The next appointment in July is for the 17th, from 10 A.M. to 7 P.M. For info: http://www.elmercatelsulamartesana.it.
Thursdays in the area of Porta Genova there is the Ambrosiani antique and flea market from 7 A.M. to 3 P.M., for info call: 331.586.8336.
On the 17th of July, from 9 A.M. til 6 P.M., in via Fiori Chiari, via Madonnina, via Formentini there will be the Brera antique market, which takes place every third Sunday of the month. No further information given.
What, finally, to do with the kids?????
Here are a few good suggestions to finish off this list:
Pecci Playart&Drink: park the kids in workshops dedicated to music, while you treat yourself to an aperitif at the open bar, free for the kids...they don't say about the drinks! The hours are from 5:30 P.M. til 7 P.M. The days seem to be only every Monday til Monday the 25th of July. Museo Pecci Milano, Ripa di Porta Ticinese, 113. For more info: 0574.531.820.
Sforzinda, Sforza Castle, Piazza Castello. Games and activities to acquaint the families and kids (and not just the Milanese) with the castle. Closed Monday morning. Fee: E.1 per child; 6 activity booklet for E.5. Reservations are obbligatory: tel. +39.02.8846.3792, http://www.milanocastello.it.
Triennale Museum Kids, Triennale di Milano, viale Emilio Alemagna, 6. Workshops with special itineraries for kids through the museum's collections. Closed Mondays, the other days (though the info is a bit confused), it looks like the hours are from 10:30 A.M. to 11 P.M. Fee: E. 8. To check information: tel. +39.02.7243.4305, http://www.kids.triennaledesignmuseum.it/home.
MuseoEstate 2011, Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci, via San Vittore, 21. Workshops, activities and guided tours for the whole family pretty much from 10 A.M. til 5 P.M. everyday esxcept Monday (some days even until 7 P.M.). Fee: E. 10. For more info: +39.02.48.555.1
And this is just a taste of what Milan has to offer, as listed in the Milanomese, see also http://www.visitamilano.it.
Whew! Typing all this took me so long, it's not Friday here, anymore, it's already after midnight, but I hope you'll forgive me, and...
Enjoy!
Friday, July 1, 2011
Photoless Friday (19): sensorial delights for a Friday afternoon
At a loss for something to do with such a gorgeous Friday afternoon, as today promises?
Have I got some powerhouse suggestions for you for some wonderful gems known well, perhaps, only by a discerning few!...More......
Via Bagutta.
A little strip passing obliquely from Piazza San Babila towards via Manzoni...where it never arrives. It stops, instead, on via S. Andrea, home of the marvelous Civic Museum of Milan offering even centuries old painted views of the picturesque Milan of canals that is no more. The museum deserves its own post...that'll be for another day.
Today, we're first headed somewhere else that had piqued my interest each time I passed it, too much in a rush to get to work on time to even look properly in the windows.
Finally en route with a little bit of time to spare, I slipped into via Bagutta to walk calmly, not squashed by the crush of locals and tourists, at least in that short stretch parallelling the beginning both of Corso Matteotti (originally Corso del Littorale) and the famous via Montenapoleone...which is not just important for the high fashion readymade wear shops that have gobbled up the street. "Montenapo," as we locals call it, also deserves a post all its own...another day.
As I leisurely stepped along the paving stones, I felt a bubbling idea..."Wasn't there a...?," and, as soon as the idea jumped full-formed out of my head like Athena from the skull of Zeus, I was already at this place promising wonders: L'Artisan Parfumeur, via Bagutta, 8.
"Nomen omen" ('the name is a prediction'), I bet myself.
"Oh how marvelous, I wonder just how costly their tailor-made perfumes are? If you have to ask, you can't afford it. Oh, what the heck, I've got time, I've always wanted to stop in, and so just go for it."
Very glad I did.
First off, I learned that they don't do "tailor-made" perfumes, but their chain did start with a master perfume craftsman (setting up his own shop in the years after WWII, as I recall!), so the "artisan" part of the title still is apt and well-deserved.
And guess what?
The clerk was friendly (surprise of all surprises...in an Italian boutique of any type?! I'd go back just for that!) and helpful. He asked my scent preferences, then offered spritzes of them in little specially made paper cones set onto plexiglass stems so that--how fun!--to sniff them was like sipping champagne. (Very smart marketing tool, that.)
The two responding to my preferences are heavenly, the third, the first perfume created, is very nice, too, a bit like fresh clean delicate soap.
The shop is so chic, the experience, too, all so lovely, I almost didn't ask, but got up my courage for you. And you know what?
Their perfumes are only a tad more expensive than the other important large chain well known ones, so they're not out of reach, and would make a very neat treat for oneself, or an impressive gift for a female significant other (I forgot to ask if they have perfumes for men, too...stop in, ask, and let me know).
Very very much worth it.
Well, that was so satisfying, what could I possibly do, next, to top that?
"Top" is a bit strong, but there still are some fun things to come that at least equal it.
Just a few steps ahead, and if you plan right, you'll be able to have lunch at "Bagutta," one of Milan's famous culinary traditions: via Bagutta, 14. Very pleasant, very tasty, very authentic Milanese experience.
When you've finished eating and leave the restaurant, continue in the same general direction, and you'll get to another wonder: ladies' shoes so gorgeous, so expressive of fanciful yet good taste, consequently so hard on the budget, but so easy on the eyes.
Rene Caovilla di Venezia.
Couldn't see a street number, but you can't miss it at (or almost at) the corner of via Bagutta and via S. Andrea.
So, we've treated your eyes, mouth and nose to a little bit of heaven. What could possibly be left?
An excellent coffee (with, perhaps, a dessert...why not, just think of all the walking you've been doing) in yet another Milanese tradition, then stimuli for the eyes and mind.
COVA - Pasticceria-Confetteria (cake and sweets shop), founded in 1817 (that's just a couple of years after Waterloo, remember? What courage the founder of Cova must have had), via Montenapoleone, 8, at the corner of via S. Andrea, near to where via Bagutta deadends (did I forget to tell you to turn to the left onto via S. Andrea out of via Bagutta?).
After coffee, how can I resist?, why not continue a few more meters/yards on Montenapo, turn right onto via Gesù, and treat your eyes and mind to a visit of the museum where I work, the marvelous Bagatti Valsecchi Museum, one of Europe's most important and best preserved historic house museums (which is just a fancy way to say that it's a "time capsule" of the late 19th century, with the Italian Renaissance art and decorative arts collections not only intact, but--importantly--displayed as the brothers and collectors wanted them to be, so it's also a great place just to be nosy about how a newly aristocratic Milanese family lived then http://www.museobagattivalsecchi.org).
If, after seeing the museum, you want to head back down Montenapo to the San Babila stop of the red line, I'll say goodbye to you, now.
If you want to keep going down Montenapo in the direction of via Manzoni (this time, we'll get there), I have just one more thing to say: outlet big name brand shopping in a shop about two shops shy of via Manzoni. The percentages off sound pretty good...until you look at the starting price. Frankly, the prices still are ridiculously obscene for most of the stuff, whether of important fabrics and complex construction, or a simple light cotton with a bat wing sleeve (no tailoring there, just a couple of straight quick seams, and it's done). If you absolutely HAVE to have something from one of the big names, though, you'd might as well start here.
It's time for a quick pre-close reminder: I get no kickbacks, or perks, of any kind for mentioning any of these places.
Enjoy!
Have I got some powerhouse suggestions for you for some wonderful gems known well, perhaps, only by a discerning few!...More......
Via Bagutta.
A little strip passing obliquely from Piazza San Babila towards via Manzoni...where it never arrives. It stops, instead, on via S. Andrea, home of the marvelous Civic Museum of Milan offering even centuries old painted views of the picturesque Milan of canals that is no more. The museum deserves its own post...that'll be for another day.
Today, we're first headed somewhere else that had piqued my interest each time I passed it, too much in a rush to get to work on time to even look properly in the windows.
Finally en route with a little bit of time to spare, I slipped into via Bagutta to walk calmly, not squashed by the crush of locals and tourists, at least in that short stretch parallelling the beginning both of Corso Matteotti (originally Corso del Littorale) and the famous via Montenapoleone...which is not just important for the high fashion readymade wear shops that have gobbled up the street. "Montenapo," as we locals call it, also deserves a post all its own...another day.
As I leisurely stepped along the paving stones, I felt a bubbling idea..."Wasn't there a...?," and, as soon as the idea jumped full-formed out of my head like Athena from the skull of Zeus, I was already at this place promising wonders: L'Artisan Parfumeur, via Bagutta, 8.
"Nomen omen" ('the name is a prediction'), I bet myself.
"Oh how marvelous, I wonder just how costly their tailor-made perfumes are? If you have to ask, you can't afford it. Oh, what the heck, I've got time, I've always wanted to stop in, and so just go for it."
Very glad I did.
First off, I learned that they don't do "tailor-made" perfumes, but their chain did start with a master perfume craftsman (setting up his own shop in the years after WWII, as I recall!), so the "artisan" part of the title still is apt and well-deserved.
And guess what?
The clerk was friendly (surprise of all surprises...in an Italian boutique of any type?! I'd go back just for that!) and helpful. He asked my scent preferences, then offered spritzes of them in little specially made paper cones set onto plexiglass stems so that--how fun!--to sniff them was like sipping champagne. (Very smart marketing tool, that.)
The two responding to my preferences are heavenly, the third, the first perfume created, is very nice, too, a bit like fresh clean delicate soap.
The shop is so chic, the experience, too, all so lovely, I almost didn't ask, but got up my courage for you. And you know what?
Their perfumes are only a tad more expensive than the other important large chain well known ones, so they're not out of reach, and would make a very neat treat for oneself, or an impressive gift for a female significant other (I forgot to ask if they have perfumes for men, too...stop in, ask, and let me know).
Very very much worth it.
Well, that was so satisfying, what could I possibly do, next, to top that?
"Top" is a bit strong, but there still are some fun things to come that at least equal it.
Just a few steps ahead, and if you plan right, you'll be able to have lunch at "Bagutta," one of Milan's famous culinary traditions: via Bagutta, 14. Very pleasant, very tasty, very authentic Milanese experience.
When you've finished eating and leave the restaurant, continue in the same general direction, and you'll get to another wonder: ladies' shoes so gorgeous, so expressive of fanciful yet good taste, consequently so hard on the budget, but so easy on the eyes.
Rene Caovilla di Venezia.
Couldn't see a street number, but you can't miss it at (or almost at) the corner of via Bagutta and via S. Andrea.
So, we've treated your eyes, mouth and nose to a little bit of heaven. What could possibly be left?
An excellent coffee (with, perhaps, a dessert...why not, just think of all the walking you've been doing) in yet another Milanese tradition, then stimuli for the eyes and mind.
COVA - Pasticceria-Confetteria (cake and sweets shop), founded in 1817 (that's just a couple of years after Waterloo, remember? What courage the founder of Cova must have had), via Montenapoleone, 8, at the corner of via S. Andrea, near to where via Bagutta deadends (did I forget to tell you to turn to the left onto via S. Andrea out of via Bagutta?).
After coffee, how can I resist?, why not continue a few more meters/yards on Montenapo, turn right onto via Gesù, and treat your eyes and mind to a visit of the museum where I work, the marvelous Bagatti Valsecchi Museum, one of Europe's most important and best preserved historic house museums (which is just a fancy way to say that it's a "time capsule" of the late 19th century, with the Italian Renaissance art and decorative arts collections not only intact, but--importantly--displayed as the brothers and collectors wanted them to be, so it's also a great place just to be nosy about how a newly aristocratic Milanese family lived then http://www.museobagattivalsecchi.org).
If, after seeing the museum, you want to head back down Montenapo to the San Babila stop of the red line, I'll say goodbye to you, now.
If you want to keep going down Montenapo in the direction of via Manzoni (this time, we'll get there), I have just one more thing to say: outlet big name brand shopping in a shop about two shops shy of via Manzoni. The percentages off sound pretty good...until you look at the starting price. Frankly, the prices still are ridiculously obscene for most of the stuff, whether of important fabrics and complex construction, or a simple light cotton with a bat wing sleeve (no tailoring there, just a couple of straight quick seams, and it's done). If you absolutely HAVE to have something from one of the big names, though, you'd might as well start here.
It's time for a quick pre-close reminder: I get no kickbacks, or perks, of any kind for mentioning any of these places.
Enjoy!
Friday, June 24, 2011
Photoless Friday (18): What's happening in Milan?
It's not creepy.
And they even call themselves an "open air museum": http://www.monumentale.net/eng/home.aspx.
The "Cimitero monumentale" ("Monumental Cemetery") in Milan was built...More...
...(then) outside of town in 1863-66 by Carlo Maciachini in a Lombard Romanesque-y Eclectic kind of style. Some of the monuments are by big name artists and architects.
Right now, poor thing, it's quite sacrificed by the construction work for the new metro stop that will be right in front of it. Don't know when that work will be over. For now, it's still easily reachable by getting off at the tram 14 stop in via Bramante almost to the piazza.
The large U-shaped structure heading the cemetery houses the "Famedio" (a place where illustrious people are buried, or remembered with plaques and statues, if they are buried elsewhere).
In the guards' office in the left wing of this "U," ask them for a map of the cemetery: (1) so you don't get lost, (2) so you'll have at least a few of the more important monuments pointed out to you. (More in-depth guides in the form of a paperback book are available for purchase, at least in bookstores...maybe there, too.)
Just inside the cemetery, there is a three-dimensional Mondrian-like sculpture designed in 1946 by the famous architectural firm BBPR (Belgioioso, Banfi, Peressuti, Rogers) in honor of one of their firm, who died in a concentration camp during WWII.
This "city of the dead" (necropolis) is laid out logically, and has three main sections: the largest central section contains the Catholic burials, on the right (facing the entrance) is the section dedicated to Jewish burials, while on the left is the section dedicated to other non-Catholic burials.
"Why, oh why is she talking about a cemetery, for Pete's sake??!?," I can hear you mumbling while performing whatever gesture your culture uses to ward off the Evil Eye.
Because in just a few days, on the 30th of June, end the tours focussing on the "Scapigliatura*" art works in the cemetery.
Guided tours are at 10 A.M. and 2 P.M. (closed Mondays).
Entrance is free. (Though I don't know if the guided tours are....)
For info, see their web site, and/or call: 02.8844.1274
I finally understood a lot about Milanese architecture and design after studying the monuments, here.
Maybe one day, I'll post a photo of my favorite monument, or two. Very touching.
*What's "Scapigliatura"? A movement-centered mostly in Milan-spanning various arts, in which the writers, poets and artists wanted to breathe a breath of fresh European air (Baudelaire, Rodin, et al.) into the Italian peninsula. Here are a few words on the British encyclopedia site, which just begin to present the subject, but the source is a trustworthy place to start: http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/526627/scapigliatura.
And they even call themselves an "open air museum": http://www.monumentale.net/eng/home.aspx.
The "Cimitero monumentale" ("Monumental Cemetery") in Milan was built...More...
...(then) outside of town in 1863-66 by Carlo Maciachini in a Lombard Romanesque-y Eclectic kind of style. Some of the monuments are by big name artists and architects.
Right now, poor thing, it's quite sacrificed by the construction work for the new metro stop that will be right in front of it. Don't know when that work will be over. For now, it's still easily reachable by getting off at the tram 14 stop in via Bramante almost to the piazza.
The large U-shaped structure heading the cemetery houses the "Famedio" (a place where illustrious people are buried, or remembered with plaques and statues, if they are buried elsewhere).
In the guards' office in the left wing of this "U," ask them for a map of the cemetery: (1) so you don't get lost, (2) so you'll have at least a few of the more important monuments pointed out to you. (More in-depth guides in the form of a paperback book are available for purchase, at least in bookstores...maybe there, too.)
Just inside the cemetery, there is a three-dimensional Mondrian-like sculpture designed in 1946 by the famous architectural firm BBPR (Belgioioso, Banfi, Peressuti, Rogers) in honor of one of their firm, who died in a concentration camp during WWII.
This "city of the dead" (necropolis) is laid out logically, and has three main sections: the largest central section contains the Catholic burials, on the right (facing the entrance) is the section dedicated to Jewish burials, while on the left is the section dedicated to other non-Catholic burials.
"Why, oh why is she talking about a cemetery, for Pete's sake??!?," I can hear you mumbling while performing whatever gesture your culture uses to ward off the Evil Eye.
Because in just a few days, on the 30th of June, end the tours focussing on the "Scapigliatura*" art works in the cemetery.
Guided tours are at 10 A.M. and 2 P.M. (closed Mondays).
Entrance is free. (Though I don't know if the guided tours are....)
For info, see their web site, and/or call: 02.8844.1274
I finally understood a lot about Milanese architecture and design after studying the monuments, here.
Maybe one day, I'll post a photo of my favorite monument, or two. Very touching.
*What's "Scapigliatura"? A movement-centered mostly in Milan-spanning various arts, in which the writers, poets and artists wanted to breathe a breath of fresh European air (Baudelaire, Rodin, et al.) into the Italian peninsula. Here are a few words on the British encyclopedia site, which just begin to present the subject, but the source is a trustworthy place to start: http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/526627/scapigliatura.
Friday, June 17, 2011
Photoless Friday (17): Vasca tonight, men's fashion week for four days and 'pull out your wallet' (it's a good cause, though!)
Fan of the Italian singer Vasca? You're twice in luck. He's singing at San Siro, tonight, AND ATM has improved the public transportation for the event. Trams, the metro and parking lots will be in service a bit longer than usual. Back home from the concert, hole up in your house, or office, for four days: Men's Fashion Week begins, tomorrow (I shouldn't complain...it's always a bit less hectic than the one for women's clothes, and it's a good showcase for Italian products, and, hence, the economy. Speaking of money...More......
...if you're a visiting the Duomo as a tourist, and not as a worshipper (don't try to be sneaky!), you'll be asked to put your hand into your wallet to help pay the upkeep and maintenance expenses...as soon as they can figure out how to separate the "sheep" from the "goats."
"But it's a church!," I can hear you complain.
I remember the first time I bumped into this situation, and I was outraged, too.
But then I got to thinking about it.
First of all, I *am* visiting it, as if it were a museum.
Second, I always drop a Euro, or two, into the box--when available!!!--for the upkeep of the church, but evidently not everyone does, and even churches have to pay electric bills and the wages for the guardians and sweepers.
And the Duomo of Milan costs FIFTEEN MILLION EUROS A YEAR JUST FOR DAY-TO-DAY MAINTENANCE AND ITS 130 EMPLOYEES.
So, don't begrudge the few Euros that you will be asked to pay.
You'll help to repair the gorgeous marble floors, for one thing, worn continuously by all those shuffling touristy feet.
...if you're a visiting the Duomo as a tourist, and not as a worshipper (don't try to be sneaky!), you'll be asked to put your hand into your wallet to help pay the upkeep and maintenance expenses...as soon as they can figure out how to separate the "sheep" from the "goats."
"But it's a church!," I can hear you complain.
I remember the first time I bumped into this situation, and I was outraged, too.
But then I got to thinking about it.
First of all, I *am* visiting it, as if it were a museum.
Second, I always drop a Euro, or two, into the box--when available!!!--for the upkeep of the church, but evidently not everyone does, and even churches have to pay electric bills and the wages for the guardians and sweepers.
And the Duomo of Milan costs FIFTEEN MILLION EUROS A YEAR JUST FOR DAY-TO-DAY MAINTENANCE AND ITS 130 EMPLOYEES.
So, don't begrudge the few Euros that you will be asked to pay.
You'll help to repair the gorgeous marble floors, for one thing, worn continuously by all those shuffling touristy feet.
Friday, June 10, 2011
Photoless Friday (16): Got a Smart phone? There's an ATM "app" for you
In Milan, but away from the computer, so can't check "GiroMilano" on the ATM website, but need to figure out how to get from point B to point C with public transportation?...More......
If you have a Smart phone, ATM now provides a free, yes free, application for Androids, Blackberries, iPhones, Nokias and Windows Mobile.
Here's the link: http://www.atm-mi.it/mobile/SmartPhone/Pagine/details.aspx?ref={051947BB-07B3-44FD-88C6-5F476CE0EC1D}.
The page is available only in Italian.
If you need English, and have access to the internet, the "GiroMilano" ("I get around Milan") feature is available in English directly on the site: http://www.atm-mi.it/en/Pages/default.aspx
You input the two addresses (departure, arrival), presso go, and wait til the little map shows you the way, complete with numbers of the trams and stops and how long the whole trip likely will take you (if it's not nearly next door, it'll probably take at least 30-45 minutes with surface transportation...calculate for sudden traffic jams).
It now is possible to specify that you want to avoid, or take, one kind of means, or the other, and is a marvelous service, though it has its flaws (often, I find that, when I see where the arrival point is, a more convenient way to go than is indicated by the map, often pops into my head, but it's always a good start).
Enjoy!
If you have a Smart phone, ATM now provides a free, yes free, application for Androids, Blackberries, iPhones, Nokias and Windows Mobile.
Here's the link: http://www.atm-mi.it/mobile/SmartPhone/Pagine/details.aspx?ref={051947BB-07B3-44FD-88C6-5F476CE0EC1D}.
The page is available only in Italian.
If you need English, and have access to the internet, the "GiroMilano" ("I get around Milan") feature is available in English directly on the site: http://www.atm-mi.it/en/Pages/default.aspx
You input the two addresses (departure, arrival), presso go, and wait til the little map shows you the way, complete with numbers of the trams and stops and how long the whole trip likely will take you (if it's not nearly next door, it'll probably take at least 30-45 minutes with surface transportation...calculate for sudden traffic jams).
It now is possible to specify that you want to avoid, or take, one kind of means, or the other, and is a marvelous service, though it has its flaws (often, I find that, when I see where the arrival point is, a more convenient way to go than is indicated by the map, often pops into my head, but it's always a good start).
Enjoy!
Friday, June 3, 2011
Photoless Friday (15): Aida and Notre Dame at San Siro's Meazza Stadium next to the Race Track with a hypothetical version of a Leonardo da Vinci
"Aida" by Giuseppe Verdi, coming to San Siro's Statium next Saturday (June 11). Should be a knock out. If these spectacular shows catch your attention, on the 29th at the same stadium will be "Notre Dame de Paris". As long as you're in the general area,...More...
...slip past the race track; in front of it is one modern version (by the sculptor Nina Akamu for Philip Dent's project) of what Leonardo da Vinci was thinking about while planning the over-life sized equestrian monument for Francesco Sforza, the condottiere who married the only direct heir to the Visconti dukedom, Bianca, the legitimized bastard daughter of Filippo Maria, and who, together with Bianca ruled Milan, and produced the sons to follow in his footsteps (one finally obtaining the official title of duke, but that's another story).
Leonardo even got so far as to produce a full-scale clay version of the sculpture, and it was placed on the castle grounds, where the bronze version--never executed, due to the onset of war--was to have been set. The clay version--its appearance unrecorded--was used by the invading French soldiers for target practice, and so was destroyed.
In any event, since even it wasn't the final bronze version, an image of the clay version, had one survived, would only be indicative, not definitive.
What I'm trying to say, and what the American side of the information never makes clear enough, in my opinion, is that this is *NOT* "Leonardo's horse." It's only one preliminary possibiity of what Leonardo was exploring for the monument that never was. This enthusiastic embracing of a false attempt at recreating something that never came into being is denigrated here, uninteresting to those, like the Italians, who've got lots of the real stuff piled up in courtyards, museums and and their storage areas.
Don't look a gift horse in the mouth...literally, this time...but it would be too confusing to undiscerning visitors to put this "fake" on the Sforza Castle grounds, as if it were Leonardo's actual horse. And besides, it fits so nice into the space in front of the race track, an apt association: http://www.ninaakamu.com/story.html, that it would be a pity to move it. Apparently offended that their unwanted gift has been embarrassedly accepted, and--like Auntie's doily stitched lovingly by hand out of used kitchen twine--placed discreetly where it can't be a ready eyesore, noises were made, and so promises to think about moving it to the castle seem to have been made (I've not verified, and I don't want to).
To quote one of my favorite TV show characters of a number of years ago, "It ain't gonna happen, my friend."
It's still impressive though. Executed in bronze at 24 feet high, and dedicated--to the great embarrassment of locals, both politicians and the general public--in 1999, it's still at the conveniently thematic, but decentralized location, in front of the horse race track at San Siro, next to the Meazza stadium.
It's worth the trip out. After all, it's not all that far from downtown, and is just a tram ride away from the center to this surrounding "bedroom community."
(Took me so long to write this, that it's now a few minutes after mindnight, so technically, it's already Saturday morning, but you'll forgive me, right?)
...slip past the race track; in front of it is one modern version (by the sculptor Nina Akamu for Philip Dent's project) of what Leonardo da Vinci was thinking about while planning the over-life sized equestrian monument for Francesco Sforza, the condottiere who married the only direct heir to the Visconti dukedom, Bianca, the legitimized bastard daughter of Filippo Maria, and who, together with Bianca ruled Milan, and produced the sons to follow in his footsteps (one finally obtaining the official title of duke, but that's another story).
Leonardo even got so far as to produce a full-scale clay version of the sculpture, and it was placed on the castle grounds, where the bronze version--never executed, due to the onset of war--was to have been set. The clay version--its appearance unrecorded--was used by the invading French soldiers for target practice, and so was destroyed.
In any event, since even it wasn't the final bronze version, an image of the clay version, had one survived, would only be indicative, not definitive.
What I'm trying to say, and what the American side of the information never makes clear enough, in my opinion, is that this is *NOT* "Leonardo's horse." It's only one preliminary possibiity of what Leonardo was exploring for the monument that never was. This enthusiastic embracing of a false attempt at recreating something that never came into being is denigrated here, uninteresting to those, like the Italians, who've got lots of the real stuff piled up in courtyards, museums and and their storage areas.
Don't look a gift horse in the mouth...literally, this time...but it would be too confusing to undiscerning visitors to put this "fake" on the Sforza Castle grounds, as if it were Leonardo's actual horse. And besides, it fits so nice into the space in front of the race track, an apt association: http://www.ninaakamu.com/story.html, that it would be a pity to move it. Apparently offended that their unwanted gift has been embarrassedly accepted, and--like Auntie's doily stitched lovingly by hand out of used kitchen twine--placed discreetly where it can't be a ready eyesore, noises were made, and so promises to think about moving it to the castle seem to have been made (I've not verified, and I don't want to).
To quote one of my favorite TV show characters of a number of years ago, "It ain't gonna happen, my friend."
It's still impressive though. Executed in bronze at 24 feet high, and dedicated--to the great embarrassment of locals, both politicians and the general public--in 1999, it's still at the conveniently thematic, but decentralized location, in front of the horse race track at San Siro, next to the Meazza stadium.
It's worth the trip out. After all, it's not all that far from downtown, and is just a tram ride away from the center to this surrounding "bedroom community."
(Took me so long to write this, that it's now a few minutes after mindnight, so technically, it's already Saturday morning, but you'll forgive me, right?)
Friday, May 20, 2011
Photoless Friday (14): how about Milan as a movie set?
Planning to make a movie? Want a location with a good mix of sophisticated modernity and satisfying tradition, with lovely parks and a real castle thrown into the mix?
Why not Milan?
Here's the info of the official city web site dedicated to you: http://www.comune.milano.it/portale/wps/portal/CDMLanguages?WCM_GLOBAL_CONTEXT=/wps/wcm/connect/ContentLibrary/inglese/homepage/english_+milano+your+film+set.
One final blurb, overtly self-promotional: don't forget to weave the Bagatti Valsecchi Museum into the plot. It's one of Europe's most important and best preserved historic house museums, which is a fancy way of saying that it's a "time capsule" of a traditional aristocratic house from the end of the 19th century that is filled with its original collections of Italian Renaissance art and furnishings, all just where the collectors intended it to be, so even if you're not hunting for a movie set, it's a great place to see some masterpieces and just be nosey...why not?!
And, since I work there, of course it's a great place!
Here's the web site (sign up to our free e-mail Newsletter, too!): http://www.museobagattivalsecchi.org.
Enjoy!
Why not Milan?
Here's the info of the official city web site dedicated to you: http://www.comune.milano.it/portale/wps/portal/CDMLanguages?WCM_GLOBAL_CONTEXT=/wps/wcm/connect/ContentLibrary/inglese/homepage/english_+milano+your+film+set.
One final blurb, overtly self-promotional: don't forget to weave the Bagatti Valsecchi Museum into the plot. It's one of Europe's most important and best preserved historic house museums, which is a fancy way of saying that it's a "time capsule" of a traditional aristocratic house from the end of the 19th century that is filled with its original collections of Italian Renaissance art and furnishings, all just where the collectors intended it to be, so even if you're not hunting for a movie set, it's a great place to see some masterpieces and just be nosey...why not?!
And, since I work there, of course it's a great place!
Here's the web site (sign up to our free e-mail Newsletter, too!): http://www.museobagattivalsecchi.org.
Enjoy!
Friday, May 13, 2011
Photoless Friday 13 *and* Friday the 13th, everything O.K. so far...‘What’s on in Milan?’
Handcrafted objects sold in stalls and stands by street venders, food prepared with medieval recipes, the hustle and bustle of a street of the Middle Ages full of colorful medieval-style costumes up your alley? This weekend, the 14th and 15th of May at the castle in nearby Legnano, there will be an evocation of a medieval village around its walls.
Pounding horse flesh, colorful medieval-style costumes and swirling banners more up your alley?...More......
On the 29th of May, still at the castle of Legnano and by the same organizers, there will be the “Palio” of Legnano, an event somewhere ‘between folklore and history,’ in the organizer’s own words.
The event modern in its inception celebrates the decisive victory on the 29th of May, 1176, near Legnano against the Holy Roman Emperor, Frederick I Hohenstaufen, known as “Redbeard.” A decisive step towards self-government on the Italian peninsula and Milan’s slow return to power after being a bit snubbed in the early Middle Ages by the invading Lombard lords (though invaders, it’s their name that stuck for the region they ruled for over two hundred years), who preferred nearby Pavia for their home base.
First, a stately parade will give the 1200+ participants a chance to show off their costumes, then there will be a Mass held from the famous “Carroccio,” a wagon with a war altar, evoking the original created by the Archbishop of Milan Ariberto d’Intimiano for a much earlier war (waste not, want not), which encouraged the medieval soldiers to beat back Redbeard. After the Mass, captains will be appointed for each of the 8 “contrade” into which Legnano is divided, the horses will be blessed, and in the afternoon the costumed participants will parade from Piazza Carroccio past the statue of Alberto da Giussano (who may, or may not, ever have lived, but who is credited with leading the troops against Redbeard, and whose image has been used by an Italian political party favoring more local autonomy), then will gather in the “campo” first for the charge not of the Light Brigade, but of the Company of Death (“Compagnia della Morte), then the “palio” (horse race) between the “contrade.” The winning “contrada” gets to take care of the “Croce di Ariberto” (a reproduction of the original, first donated by Archbishop Ariberto to the Milanese church of San Dionigi, then transferred centuries later to the Duomo of Milan when San Dionigi was razed by Piermarini so the area could be part of his public gardens, still delightful to enjoy; a reproduction also is to the left upon entering Milan's Duomo through the main portals; the original is in the Duomo museum) until the next year’s “palio.”
And you thought Milan and its “hinterland” (outlying areas) were stodgy.
What else is up?
“Milano Food Week” is finishing up on the 15th, so, if you want to sample haute cuisine by some of the city’s most important (and expensive) chefs for an affordable (or so they say) fee and enjoy some of the city’s most beautiful courtyards and spaces in the process, you’d better hurry.
The 14th and 15th also will offer “Duomo incontra l’arte”: an open air exhibit of art for sale, some of it looking professional, some of it decidedly hobby-ish, some of it modern, some of it traditional, and the whole range in between.
Won’t go into detail about the other exhibits, seen and unseen, at museums or galleries, closing farther in the future, except to say that the current exhibit at the Palazzo Reale on Arcimboldo (sometimes spelled Arcimboldi)—the guy, who did those “weird” portraits composed of fruits, vegetables, plants, animals and fish (expressing dominion of the sitter over the micro-macrocosm)—is one of the best exhibits I’ve ever seen, really, in my whole entire life (except for those pesky too small exhibit labels), both from a content and a presentational point-of-view. It’s a must-see, and closes soon, too, on the 22nd of the month, so hurry up!
For this and other information, see the free bi-lingual “what’s happening” purse-sized guide produced by the Province of Milan, called “Milano Mese” (for the web site version, called “Visit Milano”). It is a great source for info, whatever your cultural preferences from Gregorian chant to hard rock, from ancient Egyptian to contemporary Milanese art, from Living History events to Happenings, as well as local fairs and fun stuff for kids.
Pounding horse flesh, colorful medieval-style costumes and swirling banners more up your alley?...More......
On the 29th of May, still at the castle of Legnano and by the same organizers, there will be the “Palio” of Legnano, an event somewhere ‘between folklore and history,’ in the organizer’s own words.
The event modern in its inception celebrates the decisive victory on the 29th of May, 1176, near Legnano against the Holy Roman Emperor, Frederick I Hohenstaufen, known as “Redbeard.” A decisive step towards self-government on the Italian peninsula and Milan’s slow return to power after being a bit snubbed in the early Middle Ages by the invading Lombard lords (though invaders, it’s their name that stuck for the region they ruled for over two hundred years), who preferred nearby Pavia for their home base.
First, a stately parade will give the 1200+ participants a chance to show off their costumes, then there will be a Mass held from the famous “Carroccio,” a wagon with a war altar, evoking the original created by the Archbishop of Milan Ariberto d’Intimiano for a much earlier war (waste not, want not), which encouraged the medieval soldiers to beat back Redbeard. After the Mass, captains will be appointed for each of the 8 “contrade” into which Legnano is divided, the horses will be blessed, and in the afternoon the costumed participants will parade from Piazza Carroccio past the statue of Alberto da Giussano (who may, or may not, ever have lived, but who is credited with leading the troops against Redbeard, and whose image has been used by an Italian political party favoring more local autonomy), then will gather in the “campo” first for the charge not of the Light Brigade, but of the Company of Death (“Compagnia della Morte), then the “palio” (horse race) between the “contrade.” The winning “contrada” gets to take care of the “Croce di Ariberto” (a reproduction of the original, first donated by Archbishop Ariberto to the Milanese church of San Dionigi, then transferred centuries later to the Duomo of Milan when San Dionigi was razed by Piermarini so the area could be part of his public gardens, still delightful to enjoy; a reproduction also is to the left upon entering Milan's Duomo through the main portals; the original is in the Duomo museum) until the next year’s “palio.”
And you thought Milan and its “hinterland” (outlying areas) were stodgy.
What else is up?
“Milano Food Week” is finishing up on the 15th, so, if you want to sample haute cuisine by some of the city’s most important (and expensive) chefs for an affordable (or so they say) fee and enjoy some of the city’s most beautiful courtyards and spaces in the process, you’d better hurry.
The 14th and 15th also will offer “Duomo incontra l’arte”: an open air exhibit of art for sale, some of it looking professional, some of it decidedly hobby-ish, some of it modern, some of it traditional, and the whole range in between.
Won’t go into detail about the other exhibits, seen and unseen, at museums or galleries, closing farther in the future, except to say that the current exhibit at the Palazzo Reale on Arcimboldo (sometimes spelled Arcimboldi)—the guy, who did those “weird” portraits composed of fruits, vegetables, plants, animals and fish (expressing dominion of the sitter over the micro-macrocosm)—is one of the best exhibits I’ve ever seen, really, in my whole entire life (except for those pesky too small exhibit labels), both from a content and a presentational point-of-view. It’s a must-see, and closes soon, too, on the 22nd of the month, so hurry up!
For this and other information, see the free bi-lingual “what’s happening” purse-sized guide produced by the Province of Milan, called “Milano Mese” (for the web site version, called “Visit Milano”). It is a great source for info, whatever your cultural preferences from Gregorian chant to hard rock, from ancient Egyptian to contemporary Milanese art, from Living History events to Happenings, as well as local fairs and fun stuff for kids.
Friday, May 6, 2011
Photoless Friday (12): Perfume of Tuscany in Lombardy
Lost...
The Milanese branch of the antique Florentine pharmacy/perfume store used to be on via Santa Maria della Porta. Passing one day, it was closed...hmmmmm...tried, again, later...still closed, must be choosing bad times to pass by...next time, still closed...oh, I get it, it's CLOSED. "Oh, truly sorry for the store owners," and that was that because I kept forgetting to check internet for them.
...and found!...More......
Passed in Corso Magenta the other day, and the light must have been right because, there at n. 22, is its skinny, easily missed store front!
Fascinating history: opened in 1221 by the Dominican monks next to the Florentine church of Santa Maria Novella. Opened to the public only in 1612, it also produced perfume for Catherine de' Medici (THE de' Medici), who, in 1533, went to France as Henry II's queen taking Italian fashion, food and profume along with her. Her perfume with citrus and bergamotto notes, is still available: "Acqua della Regina" ("Queen's water").
This is sooooooo cool! Living history! And it smells so good, too! What a great gift for yourself, or for someone special!
Here's the link to the info about this perfume on the official web site (info only in Italian; the page apparently hasn't been added to the English version, yet): http://www.smnovella.it/italiano/art.asp?ida=7502&idc=390&idp=390.
The web site in English for the original Florentine branch is: http://www.smnovella.it/en/home.asp?idc=286.
An unofficial web site with all the practical info about the Milanese branch (though in Italian, the hours, address and telephone numbers are self-explanatory): http://www.italiastraordinaria.it/?page_id=prodotti&idcontenuto=263&idparent=384&iddetail=198.
Ho-hum, Star, you can stop reminding us of this...Just remember, I don't get any kick-backs of any kind for my personal positive opinions about any products, or brand names, mentioned.
Sniff and enjoy!
(P.S., Ha Ha on me, I've been in Italy too long...In the first version of this post, I mispelled "perfume" in the title and in a few other places, so had to repost it so that the correct version would be available through the search button...sorry!)
The Milanese branch of the antique Florentine pharmacy/perfume store used to be on via Santa Maria della Porta. Passing one day, it was closed...hmmmmm...tried, again, later...still closed, must be choosing bad times to pass by...next time, still closed...oh, I get it, it's CLOSED. "Oh, truly sorry for the store owners," and that was that because I kept forgetting to check internet for them.
...and found!...More......
Passed in Corso Magenta the other day, and the light must have been right because, there at n. 22, is its skinny, easily missed store front!
Fascinating history: opened in 1221 by the Dominican monks next to the Florentine church of Santa Maria Novella. Opened to the public only in 1612, it also produced perfume for Catherine de' Medici (THE de' Medici), who, in 1533, went to France as Henry II's queen taking Italian fashion, food and profume along with her. Her perfume with citrus and bergamotto notes, is still available: "Acqua della Regina" ("Queen's water").
This is sooooooo cool! Living history! And it smells so good, too! What a great gift for yourself, or for someone special!
Here's the link to the info about this perfume on the official web site (info only in Italian; the page apparently hasn't been added to the English version, yet): http://www.smnovella.it/italiano/art.asp?ida=7502&idc=390&idp=390.
The web site in English for the original Florentine branch is: http://www.smnovella.it/en/home.asp?idc=286.
An unofficial web site with all the practical info about the Milanese branch (though in Italian, the hours, address and telephone numbers are self-explanatory): http://www.italiastraordinaria.it/?page_id=prodotti&idcontenuto=263&idparent=384&iddetail=198.
Ho-hum, Star, you can stop reminding us of this...Just remember, I don't get any kick-backs of any kind for my personal positive opinions about any products, or brand names, mentioned.
Sniff and enjoy!
(P.S., Ha Ha on me, I've been in Italy too long...In the first version of this post, I mispelled "perfume" in the title and in a few other places, so had to repost it so that the correct version would be available through the search button...sorry!)
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