First time in Italy and worried about eating decently on a budget? Here are some good tips

You're excited. It's the first time you've been to Italy, maybe even outside of your native country, and you're worried about eating on a budget. No problem, here are some basic tips that will get you from the toe to the top of the boot....More...



BARS

The bars in Italy (yes, they call them bar...imported foreign words tend to stay singular, even in the plural) are quite different from the bars in the U.S., and maybe in your country, too. Think English pub. Without the cute.

They are places where the whole family can go, where people drop in for a quick espresso (if you must, caffè lungo, caffè americano -- American-style coffee, but, if you want to fit in, don't embarrass yourself by asking for a cappuccino after breakfast time), a quick bite or lunch, and, later, an aperitivo (aperitif, pronounced ah-pair-ah-TEE-vo), and even a Happy Hour, but typically no heavy drinking goes on, here.

What's there to eat?

For breakfast, pasta frolla (a wonderful usually S-shaped sugar cookie) or brioche/cornetti of all kinds (pronounced bree-OSH / kor-NEH-tee): semplice (pronounced SEHM-plee-chaye with the "ch" of "church") with nothing inside, or with cioccolato (chocolate, pronounced cho-ko-LAHH-toe, with the "ch" of "church") or marmellata (different flavors of marmelade, jam; pronounced mar-meh-LAH-tah).

For lunch, there are typically cold sandwiches called panini (pronounced pah-NEE-nee; singular: panino ... instead of "nee" at the end, add "no") with all sorts of stuff inside, toast (UNTOASTED sandwiches on soft white bread), or piadine (plural, pronounced pee-ah-DEE-nay, for the singular add "no" on the end, instead of "nee"): a thick flour tortilla-like thing that is filled with stuff, and then just folded over. They'll ask you if you want it heated on a grill (Da riscaldare?). Sì for yes, and no for, well, no.

If you want it to take-away, say Da portare via (pronounced dah poor-TAR-ay VEE-ah), and they'll put it in a little sack for you. Don't forget your manners: per piacere (please; pronounced pair-pee-ah-CHAIR-ee) and grazie (thanks; pronounced grah-ZEE-aye).

Want something sweet, afterwards? Torta (a kind of heavy flat cake, pronounced TOR-tah) or frutta (fruit, pronounced FRUU-tah) are typical. Or a gelato (pronounced jeh-LAH-toe).

Oh, before we finish the bars...sitting down, even if you take your cup yourself and bus the table yourself...usually adds a Euro or two to the price, so you'll have to get the feel of individual bars before you do it. Servizio a tavola (table service) always costs a few Euros more, and, no, you may not sit down at those very inviting tables under those shady umbrellas without ordering something.

TAVOLA FREDDA

Some bars, or even cafeteria-style restaurants, have pre-prepared cold food that they can reheat in a microwave. In Milan, these typically are pre-prepared or choose-your-own plates of the following: verdura (vegetables, pronounced vair-DUR-ah), patate (potatoes, pronounced pah-TAH-tay), arrosto (roasted beef or veal, pronounced ah-ROH-stoh), cotoletta (veal cutlet, breaded or unbreaded, pronounced koh-toe-LEH-tah), and pasta (PAH-stah). There may also be uova (eggs, pronounced wu-OH-vah, singular irregular: add "voh" instead of "vah").

TAVOLA CALDA

This is like a half-way stage between a cafeteria and a tavola fredda. It's usually in a bar with more generous seating, and they have a sneeze-guarded area with heated food ready for your choosing; it's not self-service, you'll have to ask for what you want. If you're picky about your food, since it has been kept hot (and usually goes pretty fast, so relatively freshly made...particularly important for avoiding soggy pasta), it usually is a better taste choice than the preceding options.

BREK.COM

This is a chain of cafeterias owned by Autogrill (see below). It's one step above the tavole calde because the high turnover keeps some of the typical stuff fairly fresh (although I still recommend avoiding the pizza and pasta, as it's not at its best), while other things are prepared for you right in front of your eyes (for example, very tasty grilled chicken breasts). Salad fixings are fresh, but you'll have to be content with oil and vinegar for dressing (I recommend getting out of the habit of other kinds of dressing that cover up the taste of the salads and add useless calories). Keep an eye on what you put on your tray. It can add up.

SPIZZICO

An Italian pizza chain belonging to Autogrill (see below). What can I say...bleh. Avoid it. Pizza restaurants are plentiful, the costs are reasonable, and the pizza is MUCH better.

AUTOGRILL

If you are driving in Italy, these "pitstop" places mix bar-tavola fredda-tavola calda-shop (and bathroom amenities) for a break. As you might imagine, it's not the best you'll ever have eaten, but it's the only thing available pretty much, and is certainly better than nothing. Besides Italy, they are in a few European countries and even North America. Want to find out more about them? Here's the website in English.

WORD TO THE WISE

Before you go, at least look up the stuff you hate, or can't eat, but keep in mind that Italy is just now awakening broadly to vegetariansim or to special dietetic needs. You'll need to be flexible, and explore. That is, after all, what travelling is all about. Even at the table.

PARTING SHOT

Remember, I get no kickbacks of any kind for mentioning restaurants and shops!

Enjoy!

Want a suggestion for Valentine's Day weekend? AgruMi, 14-15 February, Parco Sempione

Here comes the weekend, again. With or without kids, you still could plan something to do. Even better if it is not only fun and interesting, but also beautiful and (shudder) healthy!

AgruMi,...More...

...the exhibit and sale of citrus plants has reached its 4th edition, already.

A little bit of history (from where did citrus plants arrive in Europe, and when?), a little bit of natural beauty (the lovely plants themselves and artistic reproductions), a little bit of shopping (got a terrace or balcony? Buy one for home), and--for the kidlets--didactic play time (careful! Reservations are necessary for the kiddie activities, hours slightly different from opening times).

All in Italian, of course, but looking, smelling and tasting are universal, and the wit behind the name is fun, too. In case you don't read Italian, "agrumi" is the Italian word for citrus, while "Mi" is taken, of course, from "Milan."

Take your sweetheart...it's Valentine's Day weekend.

AgruMi
Palazzo Appiani, on the via Elvezia side of Parco Sempione, near the Arena
Saturday, February 14th, from noon to 6 P.M.
Sunday, February 15th, from 10 A.M. to 6 P.M.
Adults: E. 6.50
Reduced (including FAI members and kids from 4 to 14 years of age): E. 4.00
tel. +39-02.7634.0121
fainecchi@fondoambiente.it

Enjoy!

Feel like being nosey in a homey environment? I've just the thing for you: the Circuit of Historic House Museums

You’ve come to/live in Milan, and already have visited everything in my previous post, well, OK, lots of things in my previous posts.

So, now what?

I’ve just the thing!

The Circuit of Historic Houses in Milan will give you a chance to enjoy three out of the four still hidden gems of Milan, as well as one of its best known museums, so let’s go.

Let’s start at the Bagatti Valsecchi Museum, where you can buy the Circuit of Historic House Museums card. The card is valid for a year for all four museums, and it costs less than buying the individual entry tickets. For general information in English about the card and...More...

...the circuit, go here.


BAGATTI VALSECCHI MUSEUM

The best place to start is with the Bagatti Valsecchi Museum, and not just because I work there, so I’m partial--I admit it!--but also, objectively speaking, because it’s a time capsule back into a late 19th century aristocratic Milanese home filled with the original collections of Italian Renaissance art and decorative arts, all placed just where the collectors originally wanted the things to be seen. This way, you’ll get a good idea of what traditional Milan was like at the end of the 19th century before you rush to see anything modern … believe me (and this is the art historian in me speaking), you’ll understand "modern" better (and maybe even like it more), if you understand "traditional," first.

Cross the threshold and let the thoughts of Fausto and Giuseppe Bagatti Valsecchi accompany you, as you enjoy 15th and 16th century paintings, sculptures and furniture, and imagine the brothers sitting like lordly Renaissance princes in front of crackling fireplaces decorated with early 16th century frescoes. Laugh with the brothers at their sense of humor and, why not?, be a little envious of their good luck to find a Giovanni Bellini, a Giampietrino (one of Leonardo da Vinci’s favorite pupils), a few Zenales, works by other respected artists and a much revered portrait from the workshop of Gentile Bellini, as well as gorgeous majolica, glass, arms, armor, a couple of Rodari sculptures and a beautiful Madonna in Donatello’s "schiacciato" style.

Wander at your own pace. The use of the very good (if I do say so, myself...I helped to write them) audioguides is free of charge with entrance ticket purchase; they are available in English, French and Japanese, as well as Italian. Information cards in English, French, German, Spanish, Japanese, and soon Chinese and Russian are in each room. Guided visits in many be reserved in various languages. The sumptuous rooms of the museum also are available after closing hours for special events.

The Bagatti Valsecchi Museum, together with the other historic house museums, is a great museum to visit, even for people who don’t usually like to go to museums.

Why?

Because, since it’s a house, it’s homey, and you can go through it looking for your favorite kind of object, be it majolica, arms & armor, glass, glass, scientific instruments, musical instruments, clocks and whatnots, besides the paintings and sculptures...or...you can just be nosy, and peek around to see how the people lived.

If you, or someone you know, lives in Milan, don’t forget to sign up to the Bagatti Valsecchi Museum newsletter, available in English, on the web site. It will keep you informed of the museum’s temporary exhibits, concerts, conferences and kids activities.

Remember to buy the Circuit of Historic House Museums of Milan card, here, because it’s cheaper in the end, and lasts a year!

One more thing: the restaurant on the ground floor of the Bagatti Valsecchi mansion (NOT the same management as the Bagatti Valsecchi Museum) is a completely separate entity, so I don’t have any official information for you about it, but I often see people, there, so you might give it a try.

BAGATTI VALSECCHI MUSEUM
Via Gesù 5 (a few minutes walk from the Duomo, La Scala and San Babila)
MM1-San Babila, MM3-Montenapoleone, Tram 1-Montenapoleone
Handicap access available upon request
Tel. +39-02.7600.6132 (HINT: when making calls within the same city in Italy, it still is necessary to add the city code, in this case, 02)
http://www.museobagattivalsecchi.org
https://www.facebook.com/museo.valsecchi


Next house on the circuit to visit is:

VILLA NECCHI-CAMPIGLIO

A 10-15 minute walk from the Bagatti Valsecchi Museum is the Necchi-Campiglio villa, yes, a countryside style villa in the heart of Milan. Why next on the visit? Because (1) it’s your next step closer to the present in time, and (2) it’s a step toward social change in Italy: from the Bagatti Valsecchi aristocratic mansion to the villa of wealthy, but upper middle-class industrialists. The villa was built in the 1930s and 1940s by one of Italy’s most famous modern architects, Portaluppi (though some of the interior was "updated"--much to my personal chagrin--in the 1950s). Portaluppi’s sun room is my absolute favorite room in the whole house, well, that and the small (by today’s rich standards), but stupendous master bathroom. Set in its own walled garden, the house built for the heirs of the Necchi sewing machine heirs, Gigina and Nedda, and Gigina’s husband, is restful, and has a separately operated caffè.

The house, a FAI-Fondo Ambiente Italiano property, was chosen to house an art collection of the same years, but assembled by a different person. Although not original to the house, it fits in very well.

I have to admit, though, the museum has one serious drawback. You can’t wander at will. You’re obliged to reserve and follow a guided tour of the museum, so you can’t linger and enjoy as you might like. On the other hand, it’s one way to keep you off the furniture!

I’m pretty sure that they have tours in English, but it’s better to check out their web site, and write them an e-mail.

VILLA NECCHI CAMPIGLIO
Via Mozart, 14
T +39-02-7634-0121
http://eng.fondoambiente.it/beni/villa-necchi-campiglio-fai-properties.asp


The next step closer to us in time is the Boschi-Di Stefano Museum.

BOSCHI-DI STEFANO MUSEUM

OK, so, even without the Circuit of Historic Houses of Milan ticket, you could have gotten in for free in this city-owned museum, but the others, no, so go ahead and buy it, it’s still cheaper than buying the three other tickets, separately.

What’s so special about this museum on an upper floor of a nice, but normal condo building? First of all, it takes us one step closer to our own day, stretching from the 1930s up to the 1970s, but it also moves us from upper middle class to the solidly middle class circles. Antonio Boschi was a talented engineer working for the Pirelli company, his wife, Marieda Di Stefano, inherited her family’s interest in art. An artist, herself, she and her husband were passionate about then contemporary art, and so the collection has pieces from their entire married life, all displayed, crammed really, onto the walls of their fairly small condo. Pieces by Milanese artists, or artists working in Milan, were particularly collected, and so that includes the pieces by artists of the world-famous Futurist movement.

It is possible to enjoy the collection on your own, and the website is in English, but if you’re in a group of more than a few people, you’ll need to make reservations ahead of time (that’s normal, though, with pretty much all museums, world-wide).

BOSCHI-DI STEFANO MUSEUM
Via Jan, 15
T +39-02-2024-0568
http://www.fondazioneboschidistefano.it/ws/en/


Finally, we come to the Grand Old Dame, the last museum on the circuit (at least as of the writing of this post): the Poldi Pezzoli Museum.


POLDI PEZZOLI MUSEUM

Once fully a historic house museum, if the truth be told, this (really lovely and rightfully famous) museum really is no longer a historic house museum, in my opinion. Directly bombed during World War II, almost all of the original interiors were destroyed. What remains: the spiral staircase, the small room with the Meissen porcelain and the Algardi sculpture, the Black Room (well, mostly), and (well, mostly) Poldi Pezzoli’s Byzantine-inspired study.

Giuseppe Poldi Pezzoli was the son of two noble families, his mother was a Trivulzio. As a young adult he actively participated in Milan’s first (unsuccessful) bid for political freedom from the Austro-Hungarian empire in 1848...for which he was exiled for a few years to encourage him to cool off. He took advantage of the forced time away from Milan, and travelled throughout Europe, becoming a passionate collector of art, which he installed in his house, as decoration for himself and—though he confided it only to his lawyer—as a museum for after his death (he died unmarried and without children, so just imagine the surprise of his cousins when the will was opened).

Much of the collections was taken out of Milan during WWII, so it was saved, but, except for the above-mentioned rooms, was installed in the refurbished spaces in the typical set-up of a museum, the principal reason why I don’t think it still can be called a historic house museum, as wonderful as the collections are. Furthermore, Poldi Pezzoli had specified in his will that the museum’s collections should continue to grow and change, and so the museum has been able to acquire lovely pieces, or receive them as donations, that never were part of the original collection.

Whether you do the whole circuit of historic houses, or not, and I hope you do, this museum--with some famous masterpieces and many other works by famous and not-so-famous artists--is well worth the visit.

POLDI PEZZOLI MUSEUM
Via Manzoni, 15
T +39-02-794-889 (yes, the number has only 6 digits…it’s an indication of the age of the phone number; some numbers in Italy even have only 4 digits!)
http://www.museopoldipezzoli.it/#!/en/discover/ (I have to say that I REALLY dislike their website; it’s much too modern, doesn’t evoke the nature of their collections, and is so fragmented, I can’t find stuff easily, but they didn’t ask me, when they planned it, did they?!)


There, a lovely day of charming homey visits to some hidden gems and the Grand Old Dame of Milan, all chronologically arranged so that they make more sense. Did you notice that they're all art and architecture patrons and collectors' houses?

I hope you enjoyed yourself, and that you tell family and friends!

(And don’t forget to visit the Bagatti Valsecchi Museum...but you knew I’d say that, didn’t you?!)

Holiday peace and good cheer

Happy Holidays and a Happy, Healthy and Prosperous New Year from Milan.

Enjoy!

(Photo: I snapped this at dusk on the 7th of January, 2013, for your personal non-commercial enjoyment.)

(More) Stupid Strikes: TreniNord 12, 13, 14 Dec

TreniNord departs (mostly) out of Cadorna, the station flanking the Sforza Castle, and runs "nord"--north--to places such as (lovely) Como.

Just in time for Christmas visits and shopping (mean! mean! mean!), the workers are planning strikes.

Friday, the 12th of December the strike will be from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. (in truth, this should spare many commuters), but ATM is also involved, though other sources say ATM will stop from 7 P.M. onwards. Your guess is as good as mine.

Saturday and Sunday the 12th and 14th of December, the trains stop at 9 P.M., and even if your train leaves before 9 P.M., if it doesn't get to your destination by 10 P.M., you're fried.

Get out your walking shoes, and hope that the clouds don't produce rain.

I can hardly say my usual "Enjoy!," can I?

Freebies entrance to civic museums every first Sunday of the month (at least until April 2015)

Good news for museum lovers...especially those with big families, or big groups of friends.

You can get into Milan's civic museums for free the first Sunday of every month -- including TOMORROW, the 7th of December, the day of Milan's patron saint Sant'Ambrogio -- at least until April 2015.

Make it a habit...then don't break it when the entrance fees kick back in.

It's really not that much, anyway, more or less like going to a movie, and--just think--museum entrance fees generally cover no more than 30-40% of a museum's BASIC budget.

Be a good joe. Go.

Enjoy!

Light to bring hope in darkness: a traditional Swedish (free) concert in honor of Santa Lucia, 11 December, 5:30 P.M., San Fedele

In honor of the Early Christian martyr St. Lucy--can you hear the song...More...

"Saaaaaantaaaaa Luuuciiiiiiaaaaaaa" in your head?--whose eyes were gouged out, lights are lit to bring hope in the December darkness.

Her saint day in the Catholic calendar really is the 13th of December, but the Swedish choir is busy between appointments in Rome and Milan, so they'll be giving us a free concert--thanks to the Swedish-Italian Chamber of Commerce--on the 11th of December at 5:30 P.M. in the church of San Fedele on the other side of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele from the Duomo.

While you're there, oogle the little jewel of a (16th century) church, one of the earliest churches to take into consideration the needs of the then new order of the Jesuits. (Want a hint? No more deep side chapels, no more side naves...back to the hall-like formation of Early Christian churches to help the worshippers focus their attention on the altar, on the pulpit and on the sermon.)

Enjoy!

P.S., obviously, I've broken my usual practice of putting only my own photos on the blog...here's the Chamber of Commerce's illustration with info.

P.P.S., thanks to my friend, Jill, who reminded me of this by now annual happening...mark your calendars already for 2015!

48 hours to visit Milan?

48 hours to visit Milan?

Here are my suggestions for two food- and fun-packed days, especially for a first-time trip to the city.

See my "48 hours for your first time in Milan" post for my "Art in Milan" column on the excellent "Where - Milan" web site.

It was so time-consuming to compile and illustrate, you'll probably have time to come and go before I manage to do a second or third one. :-)

(Photo: my snap of Palazzo Belgioioso in Piazza Belgioioso, Milan)

No rest for...the users of public transportation: an evening-time strike, Friday, Dec. 12, 2014

Get yourself home quickly on the evening of Friday the 12th of December.

Public transportation strikes and protests that will block town are planned to begin by 7 P.M. (Keep checking the news to see if it will be cancelled, but it's unlikely...we're under the Christmas-time pressure-cooker...too much visibility at stake.)

Sigh.

Forewarned is forearmed.

Stumped for Xmas gifts? Artigianato in Fiera has high-quality crafts from all over the world

Not another tie ... no, please ... CDs? ... I guess ... if they're chosen with the recipient's taste in mind ... a good bottle of Italian wine? ... usually a good idea, but you never know about personal problems, do you? ... Diamonds? ... a girl's best friend, but you should check out their origin, first ....

Christmas shopping is getting complicated.

Uncomplicate your life: go to the L'Artigianato in Fiera at the new Rho-Pero site in Milan, beginning today! And the web site is in English!

Check it out for details...maybe we'll see each other there!

Enjoy!

(Image captured from their web site...obviously...and I don't get any kind of kick-back whatsoever...equally obviously, but better to be clear.)

In Milan? Do something sweet...for yourself, friends, family, and for sufferers of Aspergers, beginning Dec. 1st

From Monday, the first of December, until Friday, the 12th, you can kill three birds with one stone: get a yummy 'small bakery' panettone instead of an industrial one (or a very costly fancy bakery one), build up brownie points with family and friends, AND help out kids with Asperger's syndrome....More......

The "Casa del pane 1921" ('The House of Bread 1921') at Humanitar/Umanitaria already helps out people in need by giving jobs and training to people with intellectual difficulties. So, that's brownie point number 4.

This year, part of the profits from the sale of the reasonably priced panettone (E. 16 each, I immagine for a half a kilo, the standard size) will go not only to the "Casa del pane 1921" to help their outreach, but part also will go to Casa Riccardo for kids with Aspergers. (I suspect that you'd better bring cash.)

Can't get better then this.

Humaniter/Umanitaria, via S. Barnaba 48 (immediately behind the Tribunale)
Go upstairs to the first floor. Sales will take place there.

Enjoy!
P.S., the image is taken from Humaniter's info!

What to do with the kids, this weekend? Nov. 8 & 9 at Milan's museum for kids (in Italian)

The weather looks like it's going to cooperate in Milan, this weekend, so...what to do with the kiddies?

MUBA - the Museum for Kids (Bambini) in Milan, of course!

"Giochiamo insieme" (Let's play, together) - Hands-on creative activities (in Italian) for kids from 5 to 11 years of age.

Reservations required: 02.43980402.

Starting times: 10 A.M., 11:30 A.M., 2 P.M., 3:45 P.M., 5 P.M.

Oh, and the event is sponsored by Kinder Sorpresa. Just thought you ought to know.

MUBA is located in the portico-enclosed ex-church of San Michele, aka the Rotonda della Besana, aka the Foppone (don't get freaked out...it was a cemetery for the nearby Ca' Grande hospital, but that was a century and a half ago).

Via Enrico Besana, 12 (not far from the Camera del Lavoro and the Tribunale)

Enjoy!















FIRST FEW LINES HERE...More......REST OF MESSAGE HERE

Yummy food and other local products..."Popogusto" at Humanitaria, Saturday, Nov. 8, 10 A.M. to 5 P.M. ...

POPOGUSTO! Yummy! Or, as the Italians say, "Gnam!" (Make the "gn" combo like "ny-")

Local food producers of things ranging from fresh fruit and vegetables in season to cheeses of all sorts (I even saw a vegan "cheese" stand), bread, salami,...More...

...fresh pasta,...you name it, it's there.

Interested in some locally and "bio" (really or kinda...let the buyer beware) clothes? Sometimes there's that, too.

Popogusto is a Radio Popolare and Humaniter/Umanitaria initiative held within the historic mid 15th century walls of the latter (it used to be a monastery attached to Santa Maria della Pace, whose church, open to the public only once a month, is now cared for by the Order of the Knights of the Holy Sepulchre of Jerusalem). Worth the visit, just for that.

WHERE: Humaniter/Umanitaria, via San Barnaba, 48 (behind the Tribunale, between Piazza San Babila and Piazza delle Cinque Giornate)

WHEN: 8th and 22nd of November, 13th & 20th of December, from 10 A.M. until 5 P.M.

Strikes, more strikes: 14 and 15 November 2014

Coming to Italy in mid-November?

On the 14th of November, there will be a 24-hour general strike that will affect national (trains, busses) and local (trams, busses, subways) public transportation. Although no official information has been released to the general public, yet, the strikes in Milan usually start at 8:30 A.M., and run until 3 P.M., when they take a quick break to let people get home, quickly, if they can, then they start up, again, from 6 P.M. until the end of service.

On the 15th of November, the airlines will be striking.

Italian efforts to turn the economy around are making waves, on whatever side of the dispute you stand.

I can hardly say my usual "enjoy!," can I?

Here we go, again...strikes ahead in Italy...first one in line is this Friday, Oct. 24

Sigh... the ends of contracts are no surprise. They probably aren't even in fine print. So why isn't the arduous process of finding common ground begun sufficiently in advance to help both parties accept a reasonable compromise? Beats me.

That leaves those of us who depend on public transportation and services high and dry. On the following days:...More...

--this Friday, Oct. 24, there will be a 24-hour national public transportation strike with local variations. In Milan, the marquees of ATM give the usual news: the services will run until 8:45 A.M., when they will STOP until 3 P.M. for a short break to give people time to try to skeedadle home, then the strike BEGINS, again, at 6 P.M. until the end of service. And riders' patience.

--14 Nov, there will be a general strike that will include local transportation on a national level, as well as airlines. More than this, I can't say at the moment.

--Perhaps 19 Nov. there will be another strike, this time only of the airlines and only of four hours from noon to 4 P.M. Help me remember to check this one, especially, because the strike is dated 19 October (but I didn't hear anything about it), yet the placement in the list is chronologically where the 19th of November would be...I think there was a typo, but...

...all the info comes from the official Ministry of Infrastructures web site (in Italian: http://www.mit.gov.it/), but has been gleaned from the previews because...the full pages aren't opening, at all....

At least you've had a heads-up.

I can hardly say my usual "Enjoy!," now, can I?