Springtime strikes in May

Strikes are not on my "happy news" list, but...More......

...better a word to the wise.

03 MAY
10 A.M. to 2 P.M., national strike of airline stewards and stewardesses involving the airlines Blue Panorama

14 MAY
24 hours, national strike involving Alitalia and the two Milanese airports, Malpensa and Linate
10 A.M. to 2 P.M., national strike involving EasyJet stewards and stewardesses

27 MAY
24 hours, strike involving the two Milanese airports, Malpensa and Linate

01-02 JUNE
24 hours, from 9 P.M. on the 1st of June 'til 9 P.M. on the 2nd of June, national train service (FS / Trenitalia)

Can hardly say "Enjoy!," can I?

Got kids who speak Italian? Summer's coming up!

Summer's around the corner.

What to do with the kids, once school lets out?

If they speak Italian, they might enjoy Milan's public sport centers' MICAMP for kids from 5 to 14.

Enjoy!

Happy 2766th Birthday, Rome!

The traditional date of the foundation of Rome was the 21st of April in 753 B.C., 2766 years ago....Happy Birthday, Rome, still one of the most fascinating cities in the world. (photo: March 18, 2013)

Can't make it to Rome? Milan has its very own ancient Roman history...More......

...it was the de facto capital of the western Roman empire from the late 3rd century until the early 5th, after all. Snippets of ancient Roman Milan are still scattered around town and in our museums. Hmmm, let's see how many I can remember off the top of my head.

First off, the very structure of the city of Milan is a mishmash of the earlier higgledy-piggledy city, begun around 388-386 B.C. by migrating Celts, the natural and man-made waterways and the square Roman plan (from the 1st century B.C./A.D.). Over a century had passed quietly from the founding of the Celtic city, then these Gallic Milanese made either one of their biggest mistakes, or their best decisions: they sided with other Gauls and Hannibal in the fight against the growing power of Rome. Everything began to hit the fan in 225 B.C., and was resolved only by Rome's final victory over the Gauls in 194 B.C. (not to mention Hannibal's being recalled to Carthage).

It took about 100 years before the Romans would trust the Milanese enough to grant it the status of a colony in 89 B.C. (Lex Pompeia) in recognition of the city's fealty (to the winning faction...) during the civil wars. From 58 to 52 B.C., the Milanese played their cards right, again, and offered Julius Caesar a safe haven at his back during the Gallic Wars, for which the Transpadana area was awarded municipium status in 52 B.C. by Julius, and the city of Milan in particular was rewarded with full status as a Roman city in 49 A.C. (Lex Roscia). In 42 B.C., the city was aggregated with the Transpadana area in Augustus' reform of the provinces, and was named capital city of the XI region in 15 B.C.


Things trundled along quite happily; the local Celts intermarried with the Romans, and developed their own version of a Roman identity. A great and readily available example under the portico of Corso Vittorio Emanuale at number 13 or 14 is "Sciór Carera," that is, "Mister Carera," the last name being a mangled version of the first word (carere, that is, to be without) in the Latin inscription accompanying this ancient Roman sculpture under which from time immemorial satirical comments were posted to the powers-that-be.

When Gauls began to press the western part of the empire, again, the de facto capital was moved to Milan in 286 A.D. by Massimiano. During this heyday period, Ambrose, elected bishop of Milan in 374 A.D. (the title of archbishop did not exist until about four centuries later), supported Orthodox against Arian Christianity, decisively influencing the entire history of the Judeo-Christian world until his death in 397 A.D.


The milleniums of Christian history are expressed in the churches he established in Milan, three principal ones of which are still standing (San Simpliciano [photo, August 14, 2004], San Nazaro and Sant'Ambrogio still have ancient bits, though less immediately visible in the latter). The capital of the western empire remained in Milan until 402 A.D., when--again under the pressure of Gallic invasions--Honorius moved the capital to the gorgeous city of Ravenna on the Adriatic (from whence it was easier to run away...), and Milan began a long period of ups and downs not definitively resolved until the late medieval period.

Like a wheel, Milan spins outward from the area now defined by Piazza Cordusio (perhaps the ancient Celtic center, and favored by the early medieval Lombards), Piazza del Duomo (perhaps the site of a Celtic temple that became the site for Christian churches today represented by the Duomo founded in the Late Gothic period) and Piazza San Sepolcro (the ancient Roman center over which was constructed a church that eventually was dedicated to the Crusades, San Sepolcro/Holy Sepulchre).

The first circle of ancient Roman walls, perhaps erected in the 1st century B.C. by Julius Caesar, or in the 1st century A.D. by his adopted son, Caesar Augustus, stretched from the Carrobbio to Piazza della Scala, a brisk 20-minute walk one from the other (following the course of the northeast-southwest ancient Roman cardo massimo: via Margherita, via Manzoni, via Cantù and via Nerino roughly extended by the modern via Torino).


A large public baths complex was erected (end of the 2nd century A.D.-beginning of the 3rd century A.D.). Recovered fragments can be glimpsed in the open area behind the little church of San Vito in Pasquirolo that gives onto corso Europa. (photo, August 20, 2004)

At the end of the 3rd century A.D., Massimiliano stuck a big bubble onto the north-eastern part of town by erecting a semi-circular addition to the wall whose original stretch ran partly along where via Montenapoleone now trots, adding about 10 minutes to the walk from the lost gate in the area of Piazza della Croce Rossa to the "Carrobbio" where five streets came together under the protection of one of the ancient Roman gates.


Part of the tower is still visible there, though a bit hidden, in the parking lot in front of the Hotel Ariston. The Pane-Vino cafè is built right up against it, so if you go inside to have a snack, you can get up-close and personal. (Type "Carrobbio, Milan, Province of Milan" into Google Maps, find the Hotel Ariston--it's marked--and zoom down and around...the brick tower is visible.) (Ph0to snapped August 4, 2004)


Nearby in the aptly named via Circo begin the remains of the circus once tucked up against the enormous imperial compound stretching up to today's Corso Magenta. (Photo snapped August 27, 2004)


Part of the palace remains are easily visible in via Brisa (photo snapped August 27, 2004), other bits were incorporated into an early medieval monastery, later gifted with a still-fascinating church, San Maurizio, choc-a-bloc full of Renaissance frescoes.

Closer to our own day, its cloister was adopted as a focal point for the small, but wonderful and active archaeological museum of Milan, a visit to which is well worth the time spent. Don't forget to go down into the basement display area; the collections include ancient objects not excavated in Milan, but there also is a large portion of a lovely ancient floor mosaic excavated in town and an exposed area of remains of the Republican era walls.


Go, too, into the back courtyard, where you can enjoy the square tower, part of the carceres of the ancient Roman circus (it's known as the Tower of Ansperto after the early medieval Milanese bishop, who restored it; photo October 6, 2008),...


...and the polygonal wall tower, whose facets are so many and so small that it seems round (medieval frescoes inside are sometimes visible). Perusal of the ancient Roman tombstones in the courtyard slice right through the centuries: love, pride, grief.

The other (northwest-southeast) axis of the city, the decumano massimo, roughly followed Santa Maria alla Porta, Santa Maria Fulcorina, via del Bollo and ended aptly on the south-eastern part of town in Corso di Porta Romana at Piazza Missori, just outside of which once stretched a covered portico down the corso (that ran in front of Ambrogio's San Nazaro), a modern version of a mall. On the northern side of the city was the ancient granary, traces of which are under an office building, and visible--unfortunately--only for extraordinary reasons upon special request to the state office of public patrimony,or during sporadic "open days." (I still need to see this!)

The ancient Roman theater, roughly under today's Piazza Affari and the Milanese stock exchange (Borsa), has a highly visible map on the side of that building, which is occasionally open to visitors. The intelligent refurbishment allowed for thick glass floors so the foundations can be seen and enjoyed.

The ancient arena, once full of fierce beasts and battle-trained gladiators, neither of which inculcated great tranquility, was pointedly outside the city walls near the gigantic imperial palace compound, that took up about a third of the city's territory. The museum "Alda Levi" dedicated to it is small, but I found the exhibits a fascinating glimpse of gladiators and their lives, including the existence of ancient medals commemorating them and their achievements, thus invalidating the claim that this kind of medal was invented in the Renaissance. This is a very little known fact...so, see how smart you can sound, now?! I confess, the ruins of the arena, itself, are better than nothing, but are a bit disappointing. On the other hand, the museum is in part of what once was a Renaissance monastery (with a lovely little courtyard) run--if memory serves--by one of Francesco Sforza's and Bianca Maria Visconti's daughters, another fascinating shiver to add to the visit.


In the early 4th century, Constantine issued together with Licinius...before defeating him, and becoming the sole emperor...the famous Edict of Milan in 313 A.D., which recognized Christianity as one of the religions tolerated by the state. San Lorenzo, not far from the arena and enriched over the years with other constructions, was built more than a half a century later, but as part of the enormous imperial palace complex that he had walked (the church seen here from the back in a snap from March 12, 2005). (The 1st-2nd century A.D. ancient Roman columns now in front of the church were perhaps part of an imperial basilica or another temple, and were installed in front of San Lorenzo in a time lost in the mists of history, maybe even when the church originally was built.) During the Period of Consensus, the piazza in front of San Lorenzo was 'liberated' from medieval structures, and a copy of an ancient Roman sculpture was erected, there.

Other bits and pieces of Milan's ancient Roman past are visible around the city and in the city's museums and during special visits to underground areas. Who knows, too, what's going to happen to everything discovered during the relatively recent excavations near Sant'Ambrogio and in Piazza Meda.

Watch this space!

Enjoy!

The birth of an Espresso

I am so jazzed!!!

I finally succeeded in putting my new (free) digital magazine about Milan online!

Take a moment to check it out!

Espresso from Milan.

If the link doesn't work, copy-and-paste this address directly into your browser: http://glossi.com/espressofrommilan/15967-espresso-from-milan-n-0012013?q=Milan

Hugs! Star

A Milanese watch bunny in springtime

You never know when your ceramic dog is going to be stolen, so video cameras and watch bunnies are a good idea....More......

It also was watching over this fluffy colorful herd of sheep.

Today started out a bit gray and spitting rain, but by noon was lovely enough for a post-lunch walk.

Enjoying the sun and the fresh clean air, we walked past what's left of Milan's once extensive Navigli (canals). (I'd like to try eating here!) Did you know that Milan was once surrounded by and criss-crossed with canals that were begun by the ancient Romans extending the natural waterways? Expanded right up through the medieval and (long) Renaissance periods, they were still in use until the early 20th century, when the increased car population (and perhaps the need to sell cars and tires), along with a mosquito-driven health concern, caused the closure in town of all but two of the Navigli by the 1930s.

A little papal-tiara-like cut glass lamp on the snazzy table of a fancy schmancy restaurant is a happy occasion for a new "Here my are!"

Enjoy!

LILT-ing "Going...going...gone!" on Wednesday, the 10th of April

You know by now that I can't resist word play.

LILT is the Italian association...More......

...raising funds for tumor research and for aiding families with small children struck by tumors. It's a good cause, folks.

Here's your chance to contribute, have some fun and take something desirable home: Art & Heart (info in English, yeah!).

It's an auction (in Italian, of course)--co-sponsered by Milan Loves You, WhereMilan, Hortus2015 and, of course, LILT in Milan--of donated art works that will start at 6:30 P.M. this coming Wednesday the 10th in the Sala Spazio Ponte room of the Fabbrica del Vapore, via Procaccini 4 (easily reached with public transportation, use GiroMilano to find out how to get there by tram or bus).

After the auction, there will be eco-sustainable nibbles offered by Proloco Dorno, the non-profit association founded to disseminate information about the city of Dorno and its territory, followed by Hortus2015's presentation of a project to improve "The Garden of the Just" ("Il giardino dei giusti") inaugurated in 2003--the first of its kind in Italy, and the fifth in the world--dedicated to the memory of those who opposed crimes against humanity in the 20th century, but whose efforts fell on deaf ears at the time. The garden is located in Viale dei Giusti that runs through Parco Monte Stella ("Star Mountain Park") in the QT8 quarter in the northwest area of Milan.

The days are longer, now, somehow it's easier to be out and about 'til later. Take advantage of that post-work burst of energy, feast your eyes on some art, your palate on some risotto and your soul on memorable contributions to humanity.

Enjoy!

Beware...another marathon is on its way through Milan: Sunday, April 7

Were you thinking about getting out and about next Sunday, to make up for the Easter holiday?

Forget it. Make other plans. Wander about in your own neighborhood. Spend time with family. Walk the dog.

There's another marathon headed through Milan on Sunday, April 7th. For details, times, and map, go here.

Don't forget to check ATM's pages (in English) for any public transportation changes.

Spring, O Spring, wherefore art thou?

Is it like this where you are, too?

It's......More......

...gray, chilly and rainy, today...again.

Winter is just not letting go, this year.

Hey, Spring...we're waiting.

P.S., O.K., O.K., I snapped this picture on the 22nd of December at 5:30 P.M. with your personal, non-commercial viewing fun in mind...it's too cold and rainy to sit in the Piazza del Duomo "just" to snap pics.

Fun Italian names and delightful false friends

I love Italian names, first and last, they're so expressive.

This morning, a last name, new to me, caught my attention:...More......

...Gaudioso.

It comes from "gaudio"--happiness--that is derived from "gaudere," the Latin verb for "to be happy."

What a great name! "Nomen omen," Italians say, that is, the opposite of "A rose by any other name would smell as sweet": "the name, in and of itself, is a prediction."

"Gaudio" appears in a pat phrase still used a lot: "Mal comune mezzo gaudio"...i.e., if someone else also has your bad experience, too, you can be halfway happy. Notice the note of spite. It's not quite the same as, but is the Italian equivalent of, "misery loves company".

These subtle differences between languages are so intriguing, so telling about the underlying mentalities. So fascinating.

Don't go sprinkling your Italian conversation with "gaudio," though...it's very old-fashioned, the rough equivalent of speaking like Shakespeare in Brooklyn, or Poughkeepsie ("Pace," as the Italians say, "peace" / "apologies" to the worthy residents of these assuredly lovely communities.)

Be careful, too, of what we language teachers call "false friends," words in two different languages that look similar, but mean something completely different.

You can be "gaudioso" without being "gaudy."

Enjoy!

PHOTO: My snap taken in the metro stop at Rho-Pera for the new Fiera, dated December 9, 2013, 5:30 P.M., for your personal non-commercial viewing pleasure.

Striking out in April

Forewarned is forearmed. Here are the strikes planned for April (as of today!), according to the Ministry of Transportation:...More......

--08 April: Meridiana Fly, 4 hours, from 12:00 noon to 4 P.M.

--08 April: local public transportation, 4 hours, TBA

--12 April: Trenitalia, 8 hours, 9:01 A.M. (yes, 9:01) to 5 P.M.

--19 April: Airports, 4 hours, 12 noon to 4 P.M.

--19 April: Alitalia Cityliner, 24 hours

--22 April: trains, at least one shift from 9 P.M. April 22 'til 8:59 P.M. (yes, 8:59) of April 23.

Italy, the Strike-meister,...strikes, again!

When life hands you lemons...

...take pictures!

Friday there was a national strike of local public transportation. Of course,...More......

...I had a late evening course to follow that was supposed to finish at 10 P.M. But, not to be totally grumpy, it wasn't raining and the temps weren't bitter, so, armed with my camera, I snapped my way to work with a lovely blue and sunny winter sky and, skipping out a bit early, then home in the dark.

First stop was Piazza della Scala. Why are pictures of other people taking pictures so much fun!? (O.K., so it isn't Ansel Adams, but I'm still working my way toward black-and-white photography.)

Known today as the Armani building, this simple building, a lovely balance between modernism and a touch of traditional decoration in the form of a relief, was planned in the Novecento style as a multi-purpose building by Enrico Agostino Griffini in 1937-38, but only built right after WWII in 1947-48. The dark glass upper floor was added by Armani around 2010, and is a good example of a well-integrated addition, in my opinion.

Front and...

...back of the monument by Aldo Rossi (1990) dedicated to Milan's first post-WWII mayor and later President of the Republic, Sandro Pertini. The monument was recently cleaned, and the stone's natural tones have come out, creating a delightful and mystifying variegated surface where once there was just chalky white. With its original tones, the monument, rather large for the small piazza Croce Rossa, seems less overwhelming, and fits better into the space. ("Faces in Places" fans will appreciate the back view, in particular).

A few tourists enjoy the lovely courtyard of the Bagatti Valsecchi Museum where I work in the afternoon.

Work and the class over, it was time to walk the long road home. Though a few trams and busses did pass in both directions, nothing was helpful for me, so with the company of the camera I began my trudge by snapping this shot of the AEM (electrical company) building in Corso di Porta Vittoria, 4. It has long fascinated me, and I have searched for info on it. In your honor, I got lucky! The official website of the Region of Lombardy has information cards on a lot of the region's cultural patrimony. Here's the info (in Italian) for this building by Antonio Cassi Ramelli, 1947-1948, a post-WWII reconstruction of a 15th century building (once home to the Pio Albergo Trivulzio) severely damaged during the bombing raids. I find the recessed glass and metal cage of the door an absolutely enchanting and fascinating space.

Weird light on the Piazza della Fontana fountain designed by the famous Giuseppe Piermarini and executed in 1782 by his favorite sculptor, Giuseppe Franchi (the first responsible for the design of La Scala and the relief in the building's pediment, the second responsible also for the execution of the opera house's relief).

The apse, the oldest part of the Duomo, begun in 1386.

The façade of the Duomo, finally completed in the Neo-Gothic style by Carlo Amati in 1813 (the blue blur was a lucky break: a police car shot by as I was snapping some pics, so I was careful to get it, too.)

The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele with the barely visible blur of a biker in the right hand corner. This covered street connecting the piazza of the Duomo to the street towards the then new central train station planned for where Piazza della Repubblica now lies was first decided just prior to the successful revolution ousting the Austrians, and was to be called in honor of the reigning Austro-Hungarian emperor, Franz Joseph. The successful Unification of Italy beginning in 1861 (the same year as the architectural competition for the building) gave a whole new meaning to this ambitious project renamed after the new country's first king. The project chosen in 1864 was by Giuseppe Mengoni, who fell to his death in 1877, perhaps not entirely accidentally, from heights in the structure after heavy criticism. The building had been opened in 1867, but the triumphal arch of the façade seen in this picture was only completed a year after his death.

Hopefuls waiting for taxis at the far end of the Duomo's piazza.

The Broletto (Palazzo della Ragione) by night. Perpendicular to the ancient Roman cardo massimo departing from the area of the nearby church, San Sepolcro, this market (open air arches) and town hall (structure above) was constructed by the podestà, a "foreigner" (from another city-state) entrusted with broad powers for a year, Oldrado da Tresseno. The original structure went up to the cornice line, and had a peaked beam-supported roof, replaced by masonry arches under Maria Theresa of Austria in 1771-1773 when the upper floor with oval windows was added. The building continued to function as the city's town hall for a few more years, until the function was moved to an area in the nearby street still called via Broletto. (Why "Broletto"? After all, doesn't that mean, "little garden/orchard"? Yes, it does, and it comes from the habit that arose in the Carolingian epoch of the arch-bishops, in charge of civic government on behalf of the Frankish rulers, of holding civic meetings in the garden of the nearby episcopal palace, partially transformed over the centuries into the royal palace we know today.)

Still more hopefuls at the tram stop in Piazza Cordusio (looking down toward the Sforza Castle). No action, though, so I kept on trudging.

Garibaldi, himself recently restored, watches over the surprisingly quiet night from a piazza near the Sforza Castle. (Artist: Ettore Ximenes, 1895)

Claes Oldenburg's very recently restored "Needle" (1999-2000) in front of the Cadorna train station.

A cruel scene in via Monti for little famished exhausted me, but by then I was almost home.

Thank you Mr. and Ms. Tram Driver. I got almost 2 hours of more exercise than usual. (If dripping sarcasm were honey, we'd be eating baclava.)

Cosa FAI questa weekend? (What are you FAI-ing this weekend?)

FAI-Fondo Ambiente Italiano owns, cares for and manages many fine examples of cultural patrimony, be they villas and art, or gardens, parks and natural reserves.

Each year for two days, selected properties...More......

...are open to the general public for a small fee (free for members...and even the annual subscription is reasonable...just do it!).

Interested? Me, too, but the English-language version of their web site oddly does not have info about these tours (admittedly, in Italian). Go here, click on the map for the region that interests you, explore, choose, and...

...enjoy!

The papal incoronation...sort of

So, today is Francesco's incoronation as pope. The papal crown, called the tiara or triregnum, hasn't been worn since Paul VI in the mid 20th century, but still figures among the vestments of the pope. So what is it?...More......

Worn with the cope (the open-fronted mantle-like outer garment), this headcovering for popes, that probably diverged from the mitre (the pointed form worn together with the poncho-like chasuble) around 1130*, is for non-liturgical functions.

Huh?

That is, for functions in which the pope is acting more like an earthly prince, and less like a heavenly one. (That's a pretty rough distinction, but it will do.)

Mitres for performing the Mass, tiaras for receiving foreign dignitaries.

Got it?

It started out with only one crown, then had two, but since the pontificate of that fascinating and authoritarian figure, Boniface VIII, who took the throne in 1295, it now has three. Why three?

Three for the Trinity might come first to mind, but the symbolism** developed along other lines, denoting the three realms of papal power (Universal Pastor, universal ecclesiastical power, terrestrial power...obviously, according to the Catholics; terrestrial power since the victory of Italian over papal forces in 1870-1871 is limited to the small Vatican State and its little snippets, for example, the churches scattered throughout Rome). It also could symbolize the three roles of Christ, of whom Catholics believe the pope is the earthly representative: priest, prophet and king.

The tiara features in centuries of ceremonial protocol for the incoronation and actions of the pope, and even if you're not Catholic, and its symbolism of terrestrial power is limited, today, its history is still fascinating.

Now you know...enjoy!


*The Catholic Encyclopedia online is out-of-print, but is considered by many scholars to be a better version than the one now in print. It is freely available, and a reliable reference source for a lot of things, even those not having to do with Catholicism, though obviously not updated. For example, the works of Braun, the author of this contribution, were and remain absolutely fundamental for the study of liturgical and non-liturgical vestments.

**This is a good and succinct summary; if you're not religious, just skip the Bible verses at the end.

Traffic block days afoot

Watch out! This next Sunday, March 17, you won't be able to use your car in the area of Milan from 10 A.M. 'til 6 P.M.

The news released on...More......

...the city's web site (in Italian) includes fun stuff to do that day with the kids (Palazzo Marino and a "Tram full of surprises") and a reminder that one public transportation ticket is good all day on the busses, trams and metro, while the Mondoinformazione web site (in Italian) goes a step further, and notes that the car-free days in Milan (to combat pollution) have been scheduled (surprisingly wisely) with other activities, such as an upcoming marathon, so, here's the scoop:

March 17: Spring celebrations
April 7: Milan City Marathon
May 12: World bicycle day
June 9: schools and kids Sunday
July 14: Street artist Sunday
September 8: The European week of sustainable mobility
October 13: the 2nd national Walk Day (Deejay-Ten)
November 17: the beginning of the week, "Born to Walk"

Enjoy!

More strikes on the way...sigh

I try not to put up two posts in one day, but this one turned out to be too important: more strikes headed our way. Sigh.

According to the official...More......

...Ministry of Transportation web site (in Italian), as seen just now:

March 14, 9 P.M., to March 15, 9 P.M.: trains.

March 22, noon to 4 P.M.: Alitalia

March 22, local public transportation: local conditions vary. In Milan, though not posted here, the tram, bus and metro strikes usually go from 8:30 A.M. to 3 P.M., then from 6 P.M. to the end of service (usually right after midnight).

March 25, 9 A.M. to 5 P.M.: Trenitalia

April 8, local public transportation (again).

Forewarned is forearmed.

I can hardly say my usual, "Enjoy!," can I?